“The first fall of snow is not only an event, it is a magical event. You go to bed in one kind of world and wake up in another quite different, and if this is not enchantment then where is it supposed to be found?” — JB Priestley
On January 23rd, 2018, Shimla welcomed the first snowfall of the season, which covered its lush trees and mountains in white!
Residents and travellers alike were amazed by the beauty of the blanket of snow, which cloaked the town in a picturesque vision of beauty. As news spread, people gathered to enjoy the first snowfall of the year. Here are some photographs shared on Instagram, capturing visions of Shimla’s snowcapped mountains and valleys!
We all love to frolic in the water. In a tropical country like India, recreational swimming is a much-loved activity. While some people have access to swimming pools, the rest take to the rivers, lakes, canals, and even the ocean.
While it isn’t impossible to drown in a closed pool, in a natural water body, it is an entirely different ball-game. In the middle of a swimming pool, if you have cramps, you can hold the stairs and climb out. However, when it comes to natural water bodies, strong currents can sweep you away, and there is little you can do about it.
Climbing out of a swimming pool is relatively easy, a river presents a different challenge all together. Image Courtesy: Wikimedia Commons.
Drowning in rivers, lakes and the sea is, unfortunately, a widespread occurrence and in India, in the recent past, there has been a rise in the number of mishaps.
In October 2017, the Times of India reported seven deaths in two weeks. The age of the victims ranged from 12 to 31 years. In December 2017, a student of Class 12 drowned while sea bathing in Bhubaneshwar, and on the 22nd of January, a 30-year-old man drowned while immersing a Ganesh Idol, in a lake.
India is blessed to have pristine water bodies, where one can unwind, relax and be one with nature. However, one also needs to be careful and ensure that they are safe at all times.
If you are heading to a water body, here are some basic precautions you should take:
1) Not all water bodies are suitable for swimming, so, look for information about strong surf and currents, dangerous water inhabitants (like jellyfish), and other warning signs.
Jellyfish are beautiful to look at, but can cause you great distress. Image Courtesy: Pexels.
Talk to locals and lifeguards and find out if the water body is okay to swim in.
2) Chart your return path beforehand, and know when you are going to get out of the water. Choosing your return path includes taking account the shore.
The shore can have slippery, jagged rocks. Image Courtesy: Maxpixel.
If there are stones/rocks, slippery sections on the bank, navigate accordingly.
3) Always use some safety device like a life-jacket, or some floatation aid, if you plan to get more than your feet wet.
Wear a floatation aid. Image Courtesy: Wikimedia Commons.
Entering a large open water body without appropriate safety gear is suicidal.
4) Be sure to judge the temperature of the water. In open water bodies, the temperature of the water is considerably lower than in heated swimming pools.
Be careful, the water may be colder than it looks. Representative image only. Image Courtesy: Pexels.
When the water is cold, blood rushes to the core, rendering your arms and legs useless at some point.
5) Enter the water feet-first, and slowly.
Diving in could be your last mistake. Representative image only. Image Courtesy Pexels.
Jumping off a cliff into the azure ocean water looks good on screen. Don’t try it.
6) Stay sober and do not drink alcohol.
Don’t drink and swim. Image Courtesy: Pexels.
Alcohol and drugs affect judgment, dull the senses and slow your reflexes—all of which are undesirable when you are in unfamiliar territory.
7) Make sure you know about currents and understand them properly.
Understand how currents work, before you swim. Image Courtesy: Maxpixel.
8) If you are frolicking in a river, never swim/wade upstream, no matter how shallow or calm the water looks.
Leave the upstream swim to the salmon.Image Courtesy: Geograph.
9) Stay away from algae.
Don’t swim in or near algae. Image Courtesy: Wikimedia Commons.
Powdery, green, scum-like algae will give you a skin rash, if you touch it, an eye infection if it enters your eyes, and sick if you, unfortunately, swallow it.
10) Do not enter a water body alone, especially if you aren’t an experienced swimmer.
Don’t venture out on your own, swim in a group. Image Courtesy: MaxPixel.
Be sure to have company, so if something untoward happens, they can still summon help.
11) If you see someone who happens to be in trouble, do not be brave and rush in, as you will probably risk both your lives.
If you see someone in trouble, try and summon help. Image Courtesy: Pixabay.
Try and summon help, and use other methods, like a rope, or a long branch, or an emergency float, to try and get the drowning person to shore.
Open water bodies are great for having a fun time. However, it is recommended that you take the above precautions, and above all, stay vigilant, even if you plan to only wet your toes.
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In most ways, Kongthong resembles countless other villages nestled in the lushly-forested East khasi Hills of Meghalaya. Dotted by quaint huts and farms fringed with betelnut trees, this tiny hamlet is inhabited by nearly 700 villagers who cultivate the land, hunt in the forests and live a peaceful pastoral life.
However, it is the sounds, not the sights, that make Kongthong different. For generations, villagers have communicated with each other using a unique form of whistled identity instead of names!
In Kongthong, every time a baby is born, the mother composes a lullaby that becomes a unique identity of the child for life. Moreover, the lullaby has no words and is just is a tune, a kind of hum that only the villagers are able to recognise and remember.
“When a woman is pregnant, she thinks of a particular tune, sometimes a bird call, which becomes the name of the newborn. After the birth of the child, adults around it constantly hum that tune so that it identifies with the sound. This is an age-old tradition the origin of which is as distant as the region itself.
It is particularly useful during hunting expeditions. When a group goes hunting, they use these sounds to alert fellow members without arousing the curiosity of another group that may be after the same prey,” Ever E F Sancley, a PhD scholar at the North Eastern Hill University, told Times of India.
Typically inspired by nature and natural sounds, each lullaby – or jingrwai lawbei in the tribe’s dialect – is anything from half-a-minute to a minute long. The mothers of the village use these melodious tunes to call out to their children, who learn to respond to them quickly. after it has been ensured that the whistled lullaby is distinct from all others, it becomes a permanent identity marker for the child.
Interestingly, its only the title of lullaby (about 5-6 seconds long) that is used by the villagers to call out to each other. Among themselves, they never use their official names!
“We never repeat a tune. Even when a person dies, the tune which was used to call him is not given to anybody else. And though they may seem similar, we can always distinguish one tune from another,” Darmasius Rani, a village advisor of Kongthong, told The Telegraph.
What’s more, this musical heritage also plays an important role in the courting rituals of the village. Every summer, on a full moon night, the villagers light a bonfire and take part in a celebration in which every unmarried young man sings his own tune. The one who does this the best is usually chosen by the prettiest single woman as her groom!
As for the origin of this unusual tradition, it remains shrouded in mystery but the villagers believe that if unseen spirits of the nearby forests hear someone’s name being called out, it makes the person fall ill. So, using the lullaby is a way of protecting them from danger.
Local folklore also includes tales of villagers being saved from attacks by dacoits thanks to this system of communication – the person under attack would give a distress call using their specific lullaby, outwitting the goons and getting rescued in no time!
According to eminent linguist Dr Pabitra Sarker, Kongthong’s tradition is similar to a native American cult in which the tribals believe that every child born has a counterpart in the world of plants or birds.
The village’s practice of whistling to each other also makes a lot of practical sense. In the mountains, the sound of a name can often get diffused when shouted out over ridges and valleys. A distinctive tune, on the other hand, reverberates and travels much better, thus reaching a person in no time at all.
Interestingly, an identical tradition can also be observed in Kuskoy, a remote mountain village high above Turkey’s Black Sea coast, whose residents communicate through a series of earsplitting, warbling whistles that strongly resemble birdsong.
In the last few years, several scholars from Europe and USA have spent time in the village to study and understand its unique system of communication. Sadly, this rich oral tradition has remained little-known in its own country, with the government doing little to protect this cultural heritage or give it the recognition it deserves.
The good news is that the local administration has started steps in the right direction. A homestay called Traveller’s Nest has been set up at Kongthong to boost tourism and efforts are being made to preserve the indigenous culture.
So if you are in Meghalaya, remember to take a detour to Kongthong for an experience that is sure to be unforgettable!
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When we hear the word ‘travel,’ we usually think of visually stimulating trips, gazing at a beautiful sunset, or at the massive walls of an old fort. And, when someone says ‘tourist,’ we picture camera-toting tourists, reading guides,and figuring out maps.
What about the visually impaired. What does travel mean to them? Is travelling more than just sight-seeing?
What drives people to travel? Representative image only. Image Courtesy: MaxPixel.
In Bat Travel’s opinion, travelling should involve the active engagement of all the senses. Only then is it a holistic experience.
Divya and Ritu, both good friends, come from an advertising background. Divya is an art-director, and Ritu is a copywriter.
After working together in a leading advertising agency in Mumbai, they both switched to different companies, but still kept in touch. As friends often do, they decided to go on a trip together, to Europe in 2017.
It was their last day in Europe, and the friends were seated at a restaurant table in Rome, eating lunch. It is then that two visually impaired persons came into the restaurant. The women realised that that was the first time they had seen visually impaired people at a tourist spot, during the duration of their entire trip.
The duo returned to India, where they began looking for, and researching initiatives that would help the visually impaired travel. They realised that there wasn’t a single organisation dedicated to helping the visually impaired experience the rest of the world.
Thus, Bat Travels was born, purely out of a necessity to provide great travel experiences to the visually impaired.
Bat Travels aims to provide a unique experience to the visually impaired.Image Courtesy: Facebook.
Entrepreneurship is all about solving a problem. After a lot of brainstorming, both partners decided to launch the company website. Everything was up and running at that time, and the site started gaining traction.
The concept is simple. The initiative takes a bunch of travellers—a mix of the sighted, and the visually impaired, and gives them a customised travel experience. The sighted people work as ‘travel buddies’ for the visually impaired travellers, leading the way, and explaining things to them.
The concept quickly gained popularity. According to Ritu, a majority of sighted people had not interacted with a visually impaired person and were eager to see how the travel experience would be. The duo then planned their first trip to Kamshet, which is 180 km from Mumbai. They were scheduled to leave on December 3, 2017.
They contacted a professor in St Xavier’s College in Mumbai for help. As he is visually impaired, they believed that he could put the friends through, to other visually impaired people, who were eager to travel.
From putting the word out to departing for the trip, everything went smoothly. A total of 14 people—8 sighted, and 6 visually impaired—went on the trip, and it was a grand success, with paragliding and trekking being a part of the proceedings!
As explained earlier, each visually impaired person is partnered with a sighted person, and they become travel pals and are always together. This helps, as the sighted person acts as a lead for the visually impaired. The latter usually holds on to the sighted person’s elbow, while being led on the trail.
Bat Travels organised two more trips, after the success of the Kamshet trip. A beer tasting session was conducted at the Doolally Taproom in Mumbai. Doolaly is a brewery, and the travellers interacted with the brewmasters, learnt about different kinds of brews, how they were made, and were even given a glass of their favourite brew.
After this, they planned a musical night by the riverside, in Karjat. A group of 25 was entertained by a Sufi musician and his group, and also got to live in floating tents and tents hanging from trees!
Bat Travels is organising another trip in ten days. If you would like to visit Benaras, for two night and three days, do visit their website here, and register! In Benaras, as with other tours, Bat Travels aims to provide a holistic travel experience, including but not limited to street food, a visit to the weaver’s colony and an early morning boat ride on the Ganges, with a sitar player strumming soothing tunes.
While each trip is different, Ritu and Divya say that due to the sustained interaction and proximity, the ‘travel pals’ usually end up getting along like a house on fire! They have come across several such heart-warming moments during each trip, and some of them even exchanged numbers, promising to stay in touch with each other.
Sighted people are usually given literature, to sensitise them, and make them aware of the intricacies of interacting with the visually impaired. Calling it a small induction, Ritu says it helps break the ice, and dispel the awkwardness that usually stems from lack of awareness. Breaking the ice is of paramount importance, and it often happens in a couple of minutes.
Sighted people are taught how to lead the visually impaired, interpret and give them vocal cues, and interact with them effectively. Bat Travels just wants to keep providing the visually impaired with unique travel experiences, says Divya.
With no formal blueprint in hand, plans for Bat Travels include providing a complete sensorial experience for the visually impaired. All Bat Travels wishes for is the trips to get longer, and the group to get bigger, and more diverse.
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Have you ever dreamt of backpacking across the country and exploring the magnificent and mysterious places in the many corners of India?
Even as you think about an adventurous journey with your friends or travelling solo, you automatically list out the places you want to explore, what kind of accommodation you will book, the modes of transport you will choose etc.
And if you are a woman, you will have an additional question lingering in your mind—will I be safe?
To reassure women who like to travel, and to ensure that they have a safe vacation, Rashmi Chaddha has launched Wovoyage, a travel company which arranges for safe tours, primarily focusing on women travellers.
The idea for Wovoyage had formed years ago when Rashmi was a high-school student and a sportsperson who travelled to various parts of the country for tournaments.
The company assures a safe travel for women in India. Courtesy: Rashmi Chaddha
“As a self-driven person I always thought about travelling alone, and the issues concerning solo women travellers haunted me,” Rashmi told The Better India.
“As I grew and travelled more often, Wovoyage started taking shape, and I decided that as an Indian and a woman who loves to travel, this is the problem I wanted to focus on and solve, with women being my core focus.”
And so began the process of working on this idea. Rashmi studied social entrepreneurship, shaping her business model as she learned from her course.
Today, Wovoyage, which is based in Delhi, has managed the tours of women not only from India but also from UK, Japan, USA, France etc.
Happy clients of Wovoyage. Courtesy: Rashmi Chaddha
The company is actively arranging tours in India as well as Tokyo, Japan.
Rashmi’s dream of arranging safe tours for women goes beyond just a temporary arrangement. “The dream is to develop India as a hub for tourism and a haven for women travellers—with ease of travel in all budgets,” Rashmi told TBI. “This will thus generate employment for people associated with travel and sanitise them with the principles of being a good host (Atithi Devo Bhava). We are working on empowering women by involving them as team leaders.”
Rashmi works to provide lifelong memories to women, using travel as a medium. She recalls how a mother had written to them, asking to take care of her daughter who was travelling to India for the first time. The daughter had cold feet due to the cultural shock she had due to the “incredible mess and maze [that] this country is.”
Wovoyage helped the young woman navigate through India, arranging for her safe accommodation and travel that would have otherwise been very tough for the foreign traveller.
Experiencing the many colours of India. Courtesy: Rashmi Chaddha
Rashmi has won many awards for her incredible work to ensure safe travel while also creating empowerment opportunities for local women, and plans to keep the pace of development steady for the days to come.
“We aim at providing a more consciousness-raising, stimulating travel experience to any woman traveller, for their voyage in India,” Rashmi says.
While travelling, we often find ourselves caught in the moment, the feel, and the beauty of a place. Sometimes, we wonder, where did this come from? What forces came together to shape it? In short, what’s the real story behind what we see before us? While tour guides offer some clarity, it isn’t enough to get the bigger picture. So, here are four technological innovations that will add a different dimension to your next travel experience!
Using augmented reality, to make history come alive, FlippAR is a relatively new app, which as of now, only covers the city of Bangalore. It has been launched in association with the Karnataka Tourism Department.
An experiment which was successful in Cubbon Park, the app has expanded to include several parts of the city and works by pointing your phone towards the monument or statue. Once detected, FlippAR reveals a detailed history of the monument, in a video, audio, and text format, as though all your Google searches were in one place.
It also allows visitors to add their own memories of the area, creating a treasure trove of memories!
This app was developed by Srikanth Iyer when he realised that local tour guides did not offer satisfactory information.
Committed to making sure travellers could get in-depth information and access to the various stories surrounding a popular location, he launched Pinakin. Currently, the app deals extensively with locations in Tamil Nadu and Karnataka and not only includes history, but mythology, oral stories, and facts about architecture.
The app is available in several languages including Tamil, Kannada, English, and Hindi and covers a broad range of information!
This is basically a combination of one huge guidebook and the assistance of a local expert. As you explore a new city, country, or even travel to places off the beaten track, Triposo offers basic history, nearby places to eat/drink, and tips on the best places to visit while travelling!
They combine content on travel from numerous sites and compile it to make sure that locations and information provided reflects the most popular, and reliable facts. The app currently has over 500,000 downloads and covers over 50,000 destinations, including India!
Although limited to locations in Karnataka, Exploritage is not without plenty of information! A guidebook told in a narrative style, it volunteers interesting facts about the heritage, culture, and stories of different monuments in Karnataka, from Belur-Halebeedu, to Lalbagh and Tipu Sultan’s Summer Palace.
Developed by Sandeep Desai, it aims to provide the traveller with exhaustive information, and leave them feeling like they learned a thing or two.
Among the billion people that inhabit our great nation, there are some who work very hard to bring a smile on the face of others!
Whether it is through their service, their hobbies, or their extraordinary endeavours, these smile makers have made another human being a bit happier, a bit more cheerful.
Here we are celebrating a few such smile makers and offering them a special gift. You are welcome to nominate more people like them, who you think have successfully made India smile!
Fulfilling a golden promise:
How far would you go to fulfil a promise? Would you put in years of blood and sweat only so that you keep an innocent pact?
For Devendra Jhajharia, this was a no-brainer. He was determined to keep the promise he made to a six-year-old, and eventually, went on to score a gold medal for India!
Here is the story of Devendra, a para-athlete who made India smile!
Rediscovering India from the window seat of a train:
Even as many of us dream of travelling to various magnificent destinations across the world, Kumarshanu Babar’s true passion is the journey, rather than the destination.
Sitting on a train and looking out of the window, Kumarshanu not only watches the world pass by but tries to probe into the lives of the passengers, through his camera. For many years now, he has been travelling to various parts of India and capturing the many emotions of his fellow passengers.
Here is the story of the photographer who captures the smiles of India.
Age is just a number:
They say that life begins after retirement and these Naanis are proving that the saying is true!
Sarita, Pratibha, Monicka, and Neeru have spent a better part of their lives balancing their busy lives, and ensuring that they give their best to work commitments and their families.
Now that they have retired, they want to have some fun and also do something different. They have embarked upon a 4400 km road trip through the country.
Have a look at the journey of the supercool Naanis who are travelling at an age when most prefer to relax at home.
Gifting smiles, one life at a time:
The Indian Army protects our borders and stands strong even in extreme weather conditions. However, continuously braving the bitter winds and cold weather of the Himalayas, can sometimes result in grievous injuries which can lead to other complications.
When a soldier’s health suffers a temporary setback, army doctors like Lt Col Dr Srinivas rise to the occasion and ensure that medical support is provided to the jawans, as soon as possible.
He is responsible for saving the lives of many of our army men, and ensuring that they get medical help as soon as possible, in critical situations. Here is his story, the man who nursed many brave soldiers back to health.
Know someone who has made India smile? Nominate them for the Britannia Good Day smile maker surprise in the comments below.
At an arm’s distance from the Sahyadris, Pune, a serene little part of the Deccan plateau from where the Peshwas once ruled, has something for everyone.
It is a city that has always felt like a mother’s warm embrace to me, and upon further introspection, I realised that this has little to do with the fact that Pune is my hometown.
It is a perfect blend of greenery, of a booming city, of a crowded “Peth” and empty roads.
Looking at the modern city through the lenses of history (Vishrambaug Wada). Courtesy: Veda Pathak
If you have never visited the city, imagine a mother, in her 60s.
She was born in a generation where televisions were not a household item, and yet today she is learning how to stream HotStar and YouTube. She knows that her family loves pizza and pasta, but their comfort food will always be “toop-varan-bhat” (ghee-daal-rice). As much as she enjoys the luxury of a 5-star hotel, it is the walking trails that feel like a holiday. She loves inviting guests to her home but heaves a sigh of relief when they leave.
She grew up in an era where girls her age did not dress a certain way, and yet she bites her lip when her daughter today goes out wearing a short skirt.
She’s trying to get used to the changes she sees around her and is slowly coming to terms with all of it.
You might have come across several ‘to-do’, and ‘must-visit’ Pune lists or might have heard about a few historical monuments that you need to visit when you are in Pune.
However, this is a heartfelt account from a true-blue Punekar about everything that she has always loved in Pune, and all that spells home for her.
People shower petals on a Ganesha procession. Courtesy: Veda Pathak
1. Tekdi (Hill)
This one is a no-brainer for me. Tekdi is the Marathi word for hill, and Pune is lucky to have many tekdis within its city limits.
Tekdis are the collective walking parks for all Punekars, can be accessed from most parts of the city, and are the perfect place to spend your evenings.
The quarry, one of the most popular places on the hill. Credits: The Better India/Tanvi Patel
If you happen to go there to a Tekdi on the weekend, you will see parents taking their babies on a stroll, children chasing peafowl, couples enjoying a brisk walk, athletes exercising, and senior citizens doing yoga. The only other time you will probably see so many Punekars together is during the Ganpati festival.
If you want a quick getaway from all the pollution and noise, the many Tekdis of Pune are sure to rejuvenate you within a couple of hours!
2. Where to satisfy your hunger:
I am sure you must have heard about the curt and stubborn nature of Pune and its residents. Many people complain that Punekars are lazy, and will not adjust no matter what the situation demands. Well, in Marathi we say, “Khaycha tar Tupashi, nahitar upashi,” meaning, what is life if we keep on compromising?
However, we do change our stance every once in a while.
For example, outlets of Chitale Bandhu Mithaiwale, the sweet shop famous for its Bakarwadi (amongst other items), were never open between 1:00 p.m. to 4:00 p.m.
Many customers have stories about how they have been chased away from the store when it was time to shut.
However, due to the increasing demand, they finally decided to stay open, and it made news in Maharashtra!
Although Pune’s Bakarwadi, Shrewsbury biscuits and Mawa cakes are a must try, I would suggest you go to the streets to taste some authentic Puneri flavours.
The Sabudana vada at JM road is a scrumptious snack, and step into any Ganesh Bhel outlet (or Kalyan Bhel) to try the delicious Sev Potato Dahi Puri, also known as SPDP.
You have a range of options in a simple panipuri. Courtesy: Veda Pathak
The name of this snack is a mystery, but it is the way it is. Go to the original Durga on Paud Road to have a glass of cold coffee that no Starbucks or Drunken Monkey can compete with.
3. Sinhagad: The fort named after a lion warrior
Try this: Wake up at 4:00 a.m., put on your track pants, t-shirt and shoes. Take your motorcycle and head towards the village of Haveli. Let the cold winds wake you up completely. Watch the sunrise from the foothills of Sinhagad fort, and begin your trek.
As you begin to walk, you will see people of all ages—some of them in their 80’s—trekking up to Sinhagad like its no big deal! Most of them will give you a bright smile, ask you how the trek is going and encourage you to keep going if you’re tired!
Bulbuls, eagles, parakeets, and flycatchers—including the gorgeous Asian paradise flycatcher—will keep you company.
(L) The spectacular Asian Paradise flycatcher. Courtesy: Pratik Joshi. (R) A meal at Sinhagad. Source: Instagram
Make sure you stop at a kiosk along the way for a break. Have a few slices of cucumber, a glass of buttermilk and resume your trek.
Once at the summit, you can drink some refreshing lemon water, and snack on some poha, or even eat a full-fledged traditional meal. You could spend the day exploring the fort and learning about its history or relax at Lokmanya Tilak’s bungalow.
4. Midnight snacks in early morning hours?
This is for the students out there who have to spend entire nights poring over books, or the working professionals who are burning the midnight oil over an urgent project, or even those who stay up at night either because they have to, or want to.
How about a warm midnight snack/breakfast with a cup of hot chai? Well, Amruteshwar on Karve road opens at 4:00 a.m., just for you!
Empty streets, but people crowd in to have an early morning chai. Courtesy: Veda Pathak
You will know you have arrived at the right place when you see newspaper vendors sorting papers on the road as you take in that smell of chai and poha floating through the air.
Around 50 people will be huddled together in front of a small shop, rubbing their hands in the cold, and waiting for their bowl of poha. The ambience is more than humble; you have a choice between poha and upma, tea and coffee. You have no place to sit, but a couple of tables to stand around, you have a clear sky on your head and the cool breeze which complements the flavour of your chai.
5. Busy commercial streets:
In Pune, you call commercial streets “Peth” or the “city” area.
They are named after the Marathi days of the week and are areas dedicated to shopping for specific items. The Rawivar (Sunday) Peth, for example, is popular with people who want to shop for items in bulk, as there are fabulous discounts in place.
If you love stationery, you should head to ABC (Appa Balwant Chowk) to get your hands on all sorts of academic books, and pretty stationery. Whether you arere in school, an engineer, an architect or a law student, you will definitely find what you are looking for in ABC. Also, try taking a walk at Tulsibag, a heaven for those who love to shop for pretty things and bargain with shopkeepers!
The Tambat Ali (Coppersmiths’ Alley) is a GoUNESCO site. It was here since the time of the Peshwas and was once the place to go to mint coins, seals, weapons etc.
Even today, you will see coppersmiths sit at their workstation, hammering and beating copper plates and make utensils from them.
A coppersmith at work. Courtesy: Veda Pathak
6. Dagdusheth Halwai Ganpati
Tucked away in the midst of the “city” area of Pune, Dagdusheth Halwai Ganpati is a mini-pilgrimage for most Punekars.
Dagdusheth Halwai Ganpati idol during the Ganesha festival. Courtesy: Veda Pathak
If you happen to visit Pune during the Ganpati festival, you will know that Dagdusheth Ganpati procession is just as popular, if not more than the five Manache (respected and honoured idols that were established by eminent historical figures) Ganpati mandals.
And while you’re here, why not feast on some heavenly “modak” dripping with “toop”?
Many of my friends who have landed in Pune, to study or work, have complained that Punekars are very curt and stubborn.
I giggle when they say that because what is curt to them, is just practical for us. We will also keep correcting your Marathi till you perfect the language, solely because we take immense pride in it.
There is no “but we are so good otherwise” here. We are as we are, and once you realise the pride and practicality of Punekars, you will also learn to love us and our “Punya-Nagari.”
This February, Show Some Love For Your City!
We love our city, and we bet you love yours too. And since cities are meant to be experienced and not just seen, this Valentine’s Day, The Better India is celebrating the unique experiences — places, food and activities — that define 14 Indian cities!
So VOTE for your favourite city, SHARE what you love about it and TELL us your ideas for making it even better!
Let me start with a disclaimer. Although my entire family hails from Leh, I’ve never had the good fortune to growing up or living in this sleepy town for an extended period of time. I visit Leh, perched high between the magnificent Himalayan and Karakoram mountain ranges, once every year during the summer months. As my parents would often tell me, it’s imperative that I connect with my roots. Although I understood the spirit of what they were trying to impart, I never really felt a serious urge to engage in that endeavour.
All that changed in the summer of 2017, when I extended my stay in Leh beyond the standard two-weeks to one-month period. Spending more than two months in the town without the supervision of my parents allowed me to explore the town of which I knew very little. Without a vehicle at my disposal, the only option I had was to walk with my own two feet.
Go to any travel portal or the hundreds of blogs on the internet, and there is little about Leh that people haven’t already written about. With ancient monasteries in its vicinity, the Leh Palace, the old town (where one can immerse in its rich history as a major transit point on the erstwhile Silk Route) and a plethora of other interesting structures, besides great cafes and eateries, there is a lot Leh has to offer to the stream of tourists that flow in every year. Any information one needs is available online. There are many interesting blogs, travel portals, documentaries and full-length feature articles detailing more or less everything the town has to offer.
One of the remarkable things about Leh is that the view from practically any vantage point is stunning in its own right. That’s the innate beauty of Leh. However, it’s the view from the Shanti Stupa, a white-domed Buddhist structure on a small hilltop in the Changspa area of Leh, which offers the most breathtaking view of the town.
Shanti Stupa (Source: Wikimedia Commons)
Perched at an altitude of over 4,200 metres, the Shanti Stupa is approximately 3 km from my house, and a flight of nearly 500 steps takes me to the structure.
Now, why would a local boy talk about a structure that nearly every tourist to Leh has seen? What’s unique about it? Is it just the stunning panoramic view of Leh that the stupa offers?
Anyone who understands the story behind how this unique stupa came up, the personalities behind it, and why they chose Leh as the site for this unique monument will know what I’m getting at here.
The idea of constructing a Shanti Stupa came from the 19th Kushok Bakula Rinpoche, a revered Buddhist monk who was also a unique statesman representing both the people of Ladakh and India during his remarkable life.
The inspiration for the construction of this stupa, however, came from his association with the Buddhist community in Japan, and particularly, Venerable Nichidatsu Fujii Guruji, a Japanese Buddhist monk, and founder of the Nipponzan-Myōhōji order of Buddhism, whose supporters range from the acclaimed American author James W Douglass to Mahatma Gandhi.
Rinpoche visited Japan for the first time in 1971 to attend the annual ceremony marking the atrocities of Hiroshima and Nagasaki, and participate in a conference against nuclear weapons.
Most Ven Nichidatsu Fujii Guruji (on the wheelchair with yellow and white robes), Lord Philip Noel Barker and Ven Bakula Rinpoche (in dark glasses) at a march in Central Park, New York, in 1982 during the United Nations special session on disarmament. (Source: Sonam Wangchuk)
During the ceremony and at the conference, Rinpoche was privy to the horrors that atomic bombs unleashed on the people, and some of the visuals and stories on display had a profound impact on him. Rinpoche was an active member of global peace movements against nuclear weapons, protests against the arms race during the Cold War, founded the Asian Buddhist Conference for Peace and in fact denounced the Vietnam War in Parliament.
During his visit to Japan, however, he developed close ties with many Japanese monks, but especially Venerable Nichidatsu Fujii, who is best known for constructing Peace Pagodas in many locations around the world as shrines to world peace following the horrors of World War II.
In 1933 Fujii Guruji had visited India, where he met Mahatma Gandhi at his ashram at Wardha, Maharashtra, and joined in with his non-violent struggle against British colonial rule. It was after his meeting with Fujii Guruji that Gandhi began incorporating the famous Lotus Sutra (Nam Myōhō Renge Kyō) into his roster of daily prayers. In fact, it was Gandhi who gave him the honorific of ‘Guruji’ (respected teacher/master) says Sonam Wangchuk in his book ‘Kushok Bakula Rinpoche: The Architect of Modern Ladakh’.
The Buddhist order he founded called Nipponzan-Myōhōji has built over 100 Peace Pagodas around the world, including a few towns and cities in India—Darjeeling, Rajgir, Vaishali, Wardha, Dhauligiri and Leh.
Rinpoche wanted to build one in Leh, considering how the town and the larger region of Ladakh is a highly militarised border area surrounded by two hostile neighbors—China and Pakistan. Rinpoche thought that the symbolic power of having a Shanti Stupa perched above a town immersed in the Buddhist ethos of non-violence would inspire hope for a more peaceful world.
(Source: Wikimedia Commons)
Rinpoche subsequently requested Venerable Fujii Guruji to build one Stupa in Leh. With assurances of logistical support from Rinpoche and convinced of the symbolic value of this Stupa, Guruji took up the offer. On behalf of the Nipponzan-Myōhōji, Fujii Guruji appointed Bhikshu Gyomyo Nakamura to oversee the project. After deliberations with Rinpoche’s people, it was decided that a small hilltop in the Changspa area, which offered a panoramic view of Leh would offer the best site for this Stupa.
Construction work was first overseen by a committee of local civil society organisations. This committee was later registered as a society. Everyone from school children, government employees and Japanese volunteers to soldiers stationed at the nearby army camp volunteered to bring with them construction tools and food. Further financial and logistical assistance came from the district administration and State government, but the bulk of the funding came from Nipponzan Myohoji and their global network of sponsors and disciples.
For those unaware, the road leading up to Shanti Stupa was sanctioned by former Prime Minister Indira Gandhi in 1984, who acceded to a request made by Bakula Rinpoche. The construction of this road made it much easier to transport construction material.
In 1985, HH the 14th Dalai Lama offered his blessings to the Stupa and the adjoining temple, and finally, in 1991 it was open to the public.
Despite many invitations to Fujii Guruji to visit the site, his advanced age and failing health came in the way. He passed away at the ripe age of 100 in 1985. It’s indeed tragic that he was unable to witness a structure that he had helped envision and build.
View of Shanti Stupa from the Old Fort (Source: Wikimedia Commons)
Despite all its past troubles, this structure stands as a reminder about the enduring spirit and ethos of peace that governs not just Leh, but all of Ladakh, irrespective of one’s religious, political or philosophical inclinations. It is a global endeavour brought forth by the labour of peace-loving people, steeped within a particularly unique local context.
Today, the majestic Stupa overlooks Leh with the holy relics of the Buddha enshrined in it. Remember this story, the next time you visit the Shanti Stupa and take in that breathtaking view.
This February, Show Some Love For Your City!
We love our city, and we bet you love yours too. And since cities are meant to be experienced and not just seen, this Valentine’s Day, The Better India is celebrating the unique experiences — places, food and activities — that define 14 Indian cities!
So VOTE for your favourite city, SHARE what you love about it and TELL us your ideas for making it even better!
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How often do clouds stop by your home, for a little tête-à-tête and linger around for a while before gliding away as silently as they skimmed in?
How often do you find random stalks of gladiola flamboyantly blooming along the sideways of winding roads along with instant creeks that spring up after a brief spell of rain?
Now, imagine a city which has a perpetual love affair with the rains, and not keeping an umbrella while heading outdoors, would be a terrible folly!
Only those who have had the opportunity to live amidst the alpine terrains of Shillong at some point in their lives can allude to the fact that every moment in the mystical and unassuming city is nothing less of a poetic experience, where time stops still, and people coexist harmoniously with nature.
Nestled amidst the undulating peaks of East Khasi hills, Shillong is a beautiful hill station that one stumbles upon after driving through the flat and sultry plains of Assam.
Instead of a sudden assault on one’s senses, the city opens up its arms to a traveller slowly and progressively, like a bottle of vintage wine which gradually leads one to a state of bliss.
Through the dense forests of towering pines that entrance you with a mild yet unforgettable fragrance, every vista is a frame befitting picture postcards that are replete with quaint little cottages and cathedrals tucked in its folds, where gigantic roses bloom in clusters like natural bouquets, and stunning orchids bedeck the unlikeliest of places.
The reason why Meghalaya is known as the abode of clouds can be exemplified through the city, for the constant presence of clouds like guardian spirits is something you can’t quite get over.
Although it is believed that the city derives its moniker from the Shillong peak (Bada peak), a common myth surrounding the name can be traced back to the legend of U-Shyllong (the one who grows naturally), the local presiding deity who is still revered in the state.
Interestingly, Shillong had been a civil station during the British reign, whose officials called the city, ‘Scotland of the East’, as well as the capital of the erstwhile Assam before the present-day Meghalaya was formed in 1972.
Besides the native tribes of Garo, Khasi, and Jaintia, the metropolitan space of the city comprises of a fairly dense population of Bengali, Assamese, Bihari, Marwari and even Punjabi settlers who made the city their home during the colonial period.
So when you head to Police Bazaar for a shopping trip, you wouldn’t find a more diverse mix of languages and cuisines in a single place!
Shillong epitomises a symbiotic confluence of both worlds under a single sphere. Functional cantonment perimeters take one back to the times of imperial rule, and they coexist alongside modern day structures and thriving markets where one can find even edible bugs and worms for sale.
The bonhomie of the residents in Shillong is of another kind. People go out of their way to help you and if you are lucky enough to be invited to someone’s home, never say no to a cup of a locally brewed tea or ‘sha.’
Prepared without milk, it is unlike anything that you have had, and you need to try one to experience its sharp and distinct taste!
A cup of red tea with a puff. Credits: Asif Ahmed.
You would be hard pressed to find a more modest and sweet-natured collection of people, who greet you with smiling visages and an interesting rendition of Hindi, where you are either addressed to as a sister or a brother while older folks are bestowed with the tags ‘mummy’ and ‘daddy’ by folks managing stores.
Known for its musical inclination and plethora of indie music bands, it is no surprise that Shillong has been conferred with the tag of India’s Rock capital.
With a number of rock music festivals and concerts that is organised every year, the city has been slowly carving a space for itself in the international ambit in recent years.
While Police Bazaar and Laitumkhrah might be some of the happening places in the city that would appeal to tourists for its delectable delicacies and chic street fashion, the real charm of Shillong, however, lies in its rustic towns and villages amidst wide expanses of lush greenery.
With its inherent matrilineal culture, Jainsen-clad women with swaddled babies on their backs climbing hills to work on fields, are amongst the common sights you would repeatedly come across as you explore the rural territories.
Most settlements have small streams and groves that are religiously guarded by the locals—a practice that has been passed down to people from their ancestors.
One of the most adventurous yet fulfilling things that you can do here is to take a sip from the crystal clear rivulets that spring up mysteriously amidst the rocks. No bottled water could ever come close to the sweet, spring water when it comes to quenching your thirst after a rather gruelling trek through the hills.
While pears, strawberries, and pineapples are commonly grown by families in every nook and corner, what you should really not miss is the red-tinged Kafal, also known as ‘Soh Phi.’
A local fruit that you might probably not find elsewhere in the country, Kafal is best consumed when it is semi-ripe, and sprinkled with spices, though people in the region also make pickles out of the sweet-sour fruit.
But one thing is inevitable, you can never, ever, stop at just one!
Travel itineraries for Shillong will undoubtedly list popular tourist places like Lady Hydari Park, Laitkor Peak, Ward Lake, museums, and countless waterfalls that you should definitely not miss for the experience sake.
However, it is when one leaves behind the city limits and heads out to more natural settings, that Shillong comes alive in its full glory.
Having lived in the city for little over two years while I was growing up, Shillong is one of the few places in the world that I will forever be in love with, and if again there would be a chance to live in the city, I’m sure that Shillong would remain as welcoming as it was almost over a decade ago.
This February, Show Some Love For Your City!
We love our city, and we bet you love yours too. And since cities are meant to be experienced and not just seen, this Valentine’s Day, The Better India is celebrating the unique experiences — places, food and activities — that define 14 Indian cities!
So VOTE for your favourite city, SHARE what you love about it and TELL us your ideas for making it even better!
Fort Kochi is known for its picturesque Chinese fishing nets, seafood, beautiful beaches, and above all, its thriving art scene!
Whenever I walk through the streets of Fort Kochi, I find myself falling in love again and again with the vibes of the city. Time seems to slow down, and everyone always greets you with a smile.
The vibrant graffiti on the walls isn’t just art, but a movement, which seamlessly blends into the walls, so much that sometimes, you might just miss it! It isn’t just a place that you visit, but one where you can really live and experience.
The city was once a busy port for trade, where ships would dock to trade for Kochi’s plethora of spices, including cardamom, cloves, pepper, and cinnamon.
Even today, Kochi is a centre for spice export in the region! Interestingly, the region is called “Fort” Kochi, even though there isn’t a single fort in sight. They say that this is because it was once the location of Fort Emmanuel, built by the Portuguese and later destroyed by the Dutch.
Filled with ancient buildings, built by a combination of the Dutch, British, and Portuguese (who at various points in history had control of the city), this is the place where past meets present, the place which has a heartbeat of its own!
However, there’s a lot more to the city than meets the eye. Here are 11 things you cannot miss on a trip to the Queen of the Arabian Sea.
The city is well connected by ferry. Not only is it the fastest way to get from Ernakulam to Fort Kochi, but it is also the cheapest. You can get from Ernakulam Boat Jetty to Fort Kochi on a ferry for just Rs 4!
The network also connects to Vypin and Willingdon Island. However, lines can get pretty long during peak hours, so make sure you get there ahead of time. The ferry offers a chance to take in the ocean air, providing a scenic view of the ocean, but what I love most about it is that you get to see people from all walks of life, from a mother taking her kids to school to old men, reading the newspaper.
You haven’t lived until you’ve tried a glass of Kochi’s famous Kulukki Sharbat!
A local lemonade with a twist, the ‘sharbat’ is filled with khus-khus seeds and shaken to perfection. In fact, the word “kulukki” in Malayalam, means “shaking.”
On the beach walkway on one extreme end, towards the local park, there is a small cart which sells the refreshing drink for just Rs 10 per glass! Once you’ve had it, you can never forget the taste.
If you want to explore Fort Kochi, the best way is through the bicycle. I love that there are so many tiny alleys and lanes, each with their own character.
You can rent cycles for 50 rupees per day at the No. 18 Hotel. I’ve spent hours just riding around the city, from along the beach walkway to getting lost in all the small alleyways and shops. I can’t help but feel as though I have gone back to a completely different era!
The Kochi Biennale Foundation is based in Fort Kochi. They work year-round to promote and give a platform to contemporary art, both local and international!
Every two years, the Kochi-Muziris Biennale brings people from all over to the world, and the entire city is transformed into a living, breathing art exhibition, filled with work by artists both local and international.
All the major buildings in the area house colourful art exhibitions, including Pepper House, Aspinwall House, the Parade Grounds, and even the Fort Kochi beach!
In fact, the Biennale is something that the city is famous for, and is said to be one of the best in the entire world! It draws in more than 2, 50,000 people and is the reason that Fort Kochi is now on the map for cultural significance.
When sunset is approaching, Vasco da Gama Square is the place to be! There is a place close by known as “Chinese Fishing Nets,” which is, of course, home to the giant fishing nets!
The sight is truly breathtaking, and is one of the best vantage points to watch as the fishermen bring in their catch! There are also small food stalls, which feature fresh seafood, and street vendors selling their wares.
Alternatively, you can also take the ferry to Vypin, and see the fishing nets from there. It is the perfect place to grab a drink of tender coconut water and take in the evening air.
If you want a good, Kerala-style biriyani, then Kayees is the best place to go. Located in Mattancherry, the shop started as a small tea stall and then blossomed into a full-fledged biriyani hotel!
It is most famous for its authentic mutton biriyani, fondly known as “Kayikkante Biriyani,” which is aromatic and filled with ghee and bits of tender meat. Its fried and roast items, such as mutton roast and the classic fish fry are always a go-to comfort food for many living in the area, as well. Come evening; the place is packed with families and friends who all visit it to get a taste of this rich biriyani whose reputation precedes it!
Towards the heart of Fort Kochi, the streets are dotted with cafes, quaint places that feature artwork by local artists, along with a good cup of coffee. One of my favourites is Loafers Corner Café, located just two minutes from Njaliparambu Junction. Their ambience is a little darker, and is the perfect place to relax, and enjoy a good book. They even have their own small library! Burgher Street is also dotted with a collection of cosy corners to spend a quiet afternoon.
Arguably one of the last proper theatres for the Kerala art of Kathakali, and the most popular in Kochi, artistes of the centre perform every night for 365 days a year! Not only that, but the artists usually allow people to watch the application of the make-up, before the show.
Frequented by locals and tourists alike, the centre is a tribute to one of the oldest forms of entertainment in Kerala. The centre also showcases Kalaripayattu performances and offers classes in yoga and meditation.
Fort Kochi was once home to a large population of Jewish people, and parts of their culture have merged seamlessly into the architecture and the vibes of the city, at Jew Town. Here, you can find several antique stores, handicrafts, and of course, spices!
The entire town retains the same structures which were built many years ago, such as the Paradesi Synagogue, and when walking through Jew Town, it is impossible not to appreciate its history.
Located in Mattancherry, the juice shop is famous for one thing—avocado shakes! It is only made during the season, but this small juice shop is one place which is guaranteed to deliver a delicious avocado shake, made completely from the fruit, without adding water! The shop is usually open late into the night, and is the one-stop for a great drink.
11. Some of the friendliest people
Source: Wikimedia Commons
Whether it is the auto driver who takes you around the city, or the lovely aunty who runs the local antique shop just outside the jetty, Fort Kochi has some of the most welcoming people, who are always happy to lend a helping hand and guide you in the right direction!
There is a sense of community in Fort Kochi, where people genuinely care for each other, where no one is ever too busy for a quick chat, and where the door is always open, welcoming others to join them. Fort Kochi has always given me a sense of home, and of family (after all, we do call every man “Chetta” and every woman “Chechi”) and that has always been what makes it so close to my heart.
We love our city, and we bet you love yours too. And since cities are meant to be experienced and not just seen, this Valentine’s Day, The Better India is celebrating the unique experiences — places, food and activities — that define 14 Indian cities!
So VOTE for your favourite city, SHARE what you love about it and TELL us your ideas for making it even better!
What makes a city special? Is it the iconic monuments filled with wonder and history? A familiar face that reminds you of home? The distinct tastes and smells that induce a warm memory?
For me, Hyderabad is not just a city, but a place which holds some of my most cherished memories.
Just being among the diverse population of the city gives me a feeling of warmth and hospitality that I have never felt anywhere else, and I feel that everyone should definitely experience this as well.
So, let me give you an experience of how it feels like being in my city, Hyderabad.
A tourist hotspot, the Old City, is a walled city of Hyderabad and is considered to be the heart of Hyderabadi Muslim culture.
It contains many landmark buildings, including the majestic centrepiece of the Nizam dynasty, the Charminar, which is said to have built by the then Sultan and founder of Hyderabad Quli Qutb Shah to celebrate the end of a deadly plague that ravaged the city.
You will see a strong Persian and Islamic influence throughout the Old City, and the best way to explore the markets is by foot which will leave you with an experience of what it feels like to be a Hyderabadi.
The streets of the Old city offer shopaholics everything they could ask for, especially jewellery, and in particular bangles and pearls. They say that a pearl isn’t real if it isn’t from Hyderabad—no wonder that the city is popularly known as the “City of Pearls!”
A visit to the Old City is incomplete without tasting its fantastic food. While the Hyderabadi Biryani is a well known cultural symbol of the city, what truly represents the spirit of Hyderabad is its famous Irani chai and Osmania biscuits.
My recommendation for a delightful cup of Irani chai would be at the Nimrah Cafe and Bakery which is right in front of the Charminar. For those who love Biriyani, Hotel Shadab is definitely the place to eat.
For me, the Nampally Exhibition is not just an annual fair, but a celebration of my childhood. It is the only fair in the world which is organised for 46 days at its 23-acre permanent venue in Nampally.
Even before you step inside the premises, you are surrounded by vendors selling soap bubble blowers, gas balloons and glowing toys which as a kid you just cannot resist. As soon as you enter the grounds, you’re greeted with the smell of freshly made popcorn filling up the air—and everyone knows it’s not a fair if it doesn’t have popcorn!
Whatever be your taste, the exhibition has something for everyone, making it an event which is deeply cherished and enjoyed by the city, every year.
Over the centuries, this city within a city has witnessed multiple dynasties. A crown of the ancient world unlike any other, it held immeasurable wealth under the monarchy of the Nizams. Amongst its infinite treasures were two of the world’s most famous jewels, The Koh-i-noor and The Hope diamond. The mines surrounding the fort were said to have produced these priceless gems.
Just one step inside the fort will transport you back into its illustrious past, and as you walk through its majestic corridors, you can experience its former glory still prevalent to this day.
Despite the luxury and service that the modern multiplex offers, the one thing that it cannot match is the old-world charm of single-screen cinemas. And there is no better place to experience the excitement of commercial cinema than Hyderabad.
Hyderabadis are absolutely crazy about movies—language no bar— and a movie-watching experience in a hall can sometimes result in an atmosphere more electrifying than a cricket match between India and Pakistan.
From 50-foot tall lifesize cutouts of their favourite superstars to the non-stop whistling inside the hall, Hyderabadis ensure an unforgettable experience every time one steps inside a single screen.
So make sure you add this to your bucket list whenever you visit Hyderabad!
My brother and I would save up our bus fare and hitch a ride home just to save money and gorge on the delicious chaat at Maharaja’s. Although it is now located in Madhapur, it was just a small bandi (eatery) near Jubilee Hills check-post and served some of the best cutlets and panipuris have ever tasted in my life.
We would walk almost three kilometres every week just to eat some of that amazing chaat, and seeing our dedication, Raju, the owner of the place, would sometimes treat us with extra panipuris!
I can now proudly say that the place has grown leaps and bounds, and is now considered to be one of the best places to eat chaat in the city. If you ever visit Maharaja’s, you must try the Aloo toast and the Aloo Tikki.
Built in 1563, the Hussain Sagar is one of the largest man-made lakes in the country. At the centre of the lake stands the tallest monolithic statue of Gautam Buddha which measures 58 feet long and weighs 350 tons.
Visitors can enjoy boat rides and the water sports around the periphery of the lake along with the added attraction of a public and amusement park.
What makes the Hussain Sagar even more unique is the fact that it has been recognised by the United Nations World Tourism Organisation (UNWTO) as the largest heart-shaped mark on earth making it the ‘Heart of the World.’
This legendary roadside eatery is the place to be if you call yourself a ‘Night Owl.’ It dishes out mouthwatering dosas and other breakfast dishes as early as 3 am in the morning. Everyone from teenagers to film stars pop up at Ram ki bandi whenever they crave a midnight snack.
The best thing about the eatery? Everything on the menu costs less than 100 rupees, and the food is definitely a bang for the buck!
Hyderabad is blessed with a unique landscape—spectacular rock formations which are about 2,500 million years old and are amongst the oldest and hardest rocks in the world.
A local initiative called the Society to Save Rocks regularly organises treks for nature enthusiasts on the weekends also creating awareness about the importance of protecting the ridges and granite hills of the Deccan plateau.
There’s also the Hyderabad Rockathon which has several different activities like rock balancing, bouldering, rock photography and rappelling which is held annually. So, if you are someone who loves such activities make sure you don’t miss out on the Rockathon in case you’re in town.
Situated around the Hussain Sagar lake, Eat Street is to Hyderabad what Chowpatty is to Mumbai. With Hyderabad being a culturally diverse city, there is always a craving for different varieties food and your probably not going to find as many choices of food that you find at Eat Street.
The lakeside setting only makes it more special as you enjoy the cool evening breeze while gorging on some delicious food and some pleasant conversation with your loved ones!
If you thought Hollywood is a big deal, wait until you see Hyderabad’s very own Ramoji Film City. Spread across 2,000 acres of land, it is the largest integrated film city on the planet. The recent blockbuster series of Baahubali was also shot inside Ramoji.
With live shows, set visits, and various other activities, it would certainly take more than a day to explore the city thoroughly, and if you’re lucky enough, you might just come across your favourite movie star!
While it might not accurately portray the spirit of Hyderabad, it indeed is something the city is proud of.
Everything I have described about Hyderabad so far is what I experienced living in the city. And although there are a lot of other places I would have loved to mention here, the best way to know more about my city is to experience it yourself.
In 1996 my family, consisting of my father, mother, brother, and I, moved to Madras (it wasn’t Chennai then). We were moving from Calcutta, a city I will always love and cherish for the people and warmth it gave us.
Chennai to me then seemed like an overgrown village. All of 12, I never thought I would come to love Chennai so much.
Representational image
The changes were just too many to handle. I went from an all-girls school in Calcutta, where I would wear a skirt, to wearing a salwar kurta in a co-educational school in Chennai. My food turned from schoolmates’ snack boxes containing aloo puri and sandwiches to seeing only lemon rice and curd rice. Even the dialect and speed of spoken Tamil was baffling.
So how did the city transform me from a weeping child to smiling wide every time I touch down in Chennai?
A friend of mine often says Madras is an emotion; you have to live it to get a sense of what that means.
The city, the people, its way of life and the culture slowly seeps into you till you become one with them. Chennai doesn’t give you culture shocks and reality checks like a Mumbai would – but will allow you to settle into it, in your own way, and then it will grow on you – slowly, but surely.
Here are a few of the things that make this city special:
1. The beach
I felt the significance and importance of the beach only when I left the city. Up until then, it was just always there. We would take relatives and friends to the beach. But the real connect happened when I came home for the first time from college in Pune for a break. I didn’t realise how much I’d missed the beach till I saw it after a few months.
A few friends decided to take me to the ‘broken bridge’, which as the name suggests is just that – a broken bridge across the Adyar river near the Theosophical Society.
At the broken bridge
We sat there watching the sunrise, discussing life and what it meant to all of us. Since that first visit, I have ensured that I visit this magical place at least once a year, if not more.
2. The food
I must confess that growing up I hated everything termed as ‘South Indian food’, which basically to me then meant idli, dosa, sambhar and the numerous varieties of chutney. With time I have come to appreciate this cuisine. There is so much more to the food in Chennai than just idli and dosa.
What I have come to love is how much this city has to offer regarding food. There are high-end cafes where one can lounge around with signature coffees or just have full meals at one of the many chains and satiate your soul.
If you happen to visit the city, do make a trip to the famous Ratna Café in Triplicane and try their signature small onion sambar and, of course, the ‘filter kaapi’.
Why is it that everything that you want to stay away from when growing up suddenly starts pulling you when you are older?
Like many typical households in Chennai, my mornings would also begin with M.S. Subbalakshmi’s Suprabhatam. At that time I would burrow my head deeper into the pillow to stay away from it. Now I yearn for it.
Perhaps one of the best seasons to visit Chennai is during the month of December when the Mazgahi music season takes place.
A season to dress up
The weather gods also take pity on the city and go easy on the heat during this period. It is this time of year when the city is decked up and at its cultural best. People from all over the world come here to soak in the arts, and the food in the sabhas is another post in itself.
4. People
Having lived in eight cities across India, I can say with deep conviction that the people in Chennai are special. What this city teaches you is to be grounded and civil.
The importance that families place on education helps in shaping individuals who are highly motivated and sensitive at the same time.
They are a sporting bunch who applaud any genuine effort.
A very telling example is when the crowds at the Chepauk stadium cheered Pakistan graciously after they defeated India. While they are fierce supporters of their own team and do feel equally sad and disappointed when their team loses, they do not shy away from acknowledging the opposition’s strengths.
Chennai’s sports fans are a class apart; it is a true barometer of the city and its people.
Chennai is all heart and anyone who spends time understanding this city is bound to fall in love with it.
This February, Show Some Love For Your City!
We love our city, and we bet you love yours too. And since cities are meant to be experienced and not just seen, this Valentine’s Day, The Better India is celebrating the unique experiences — places, food and activities — that define 14 Indian cities!
So VOTE for your favourite city, SHARE what you love about it and TELL us your ideas for making it even better!
Whether you still live there or not, your hometown will always be your home. This is the place where you spent your childhood, where you made your first friends (and all those memories!) and where you became the person you are today. But it’s not until you leave that you realize how much you miss your hometown.
As they say, home is where the heart is. And my heart definitely resides in Panaji (Panjim), the town where I spent my childhood and my favourite place in the world, Here is a heartfelt account of everything I love about my hometown and why, no matter where I go, it will always remind me of where I have come from.
The pocket-sized capital of Goa, Panjim has a unique vibe that is palpably different from any other city in India.
It is a place where grand colonial-era buildings and tree-lined boulevards rub shoulders with old-school cafes and backstreet bars. It is also a place where total strangers engage in elaborate exchanges and where tiny crumbly-walled bakeries serve up an astonishing array of cakes, croissants, and snacks.
In the 90s, growing up in this beautiful city meant laidback get-togethers on every festival, languid monsoon drives on rain-slicked roads and care-free evenings spent walking barefoot on the Miramar beach. It was also a time when each moment uncovered was filled with rare emotion and simple pleasures.
I remember eagerly waiting for Diwali so I could build Narkasur effigies and akash kandils with my colony kids. I remember stuffing myself with fresh ginger-infused khaje and shaking my leg to Hanv Saiba Poltodi Vetam with dekhni dancers during temple zatras and church feasts. And I remember when Panjim hosted International Film Festival of India for the first time, decanting a 21st century sheen into the city’s vintage localities.
Fresh khaje are sold in large quantities during temple zatras and church feasts in Goa.
It is this enchanting mix of traditional and modern experiences, of old secrets and new charms, that truly defines Panjim. Here’s a peek into some of these experiences.
The Pretty Little Hill of Altinho
Altinho, a little hill in the middle of Panjim, is where my home was located. Ever so often, a bunch of us kids would skip our games and race to this spot on the hillside from where we could gaze down onto the city — a view that will remain forever etched in my mind’s eye.
Altinho is also home to the imposing Archbishop’s Palace and the beautiful Sunaparanta Centre for Arts. Hidden within the confines of this heritage art gallery lies a gem of a cafe. Overlooking a pretty courtyard, Cafe Bodega offers alfresco dining, a great atmosphere and some amazing fresh-baked desserts.
Interestingly, at the foot of the Altinho hill lies Panjim’s the most visible symbol: the gorgeous Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception church, keeping a maternal eye on the once-majestic villas that clutch at her skirts.
The Latin Quarter at Fontainhas
While Panjim’s sun-dappled streets and old-world atmosphere is charming in its entirety, the city’s Latin Quarter that really steals the show. This picturesque collection of 19th-century houses — with wrought iron balconies and oyster shell windows — stretches along the Ourem river through the miniature neighbourhoods of Sao Tome, Cortim, Fontainhas, Mala and Portais.
This tangle of narrow streets is also where one can witness both preservation and revival. Many houses in the Latin Quarter are still occupied by the original families that built them while others now showcase art galleries, eateries, inns and boutiques, as well as the office of the Charles Correa foundation.
Interestingly, the residents of this neighbourhood hospitably lay out coffee and cake for all visitors who attend the traditional midnight mass held outdoors on Christmas Eve!
Splendid Sunsets At Miramar
In a state renowned for surreal sunsets, Miramar is Panjim’s own special spot to experience the superlative glow that lights up the evening skies, extending across the azure ocean right up to the horizon.
With long stretches of rolling sand dunes backed by healthy stands of casuarina trees, Miramar is a much-loved local haunt. Hit the urban beach after dawn or dusk and you will be greeted by elderly couples walking together, budding footballers running through their paces and flocks of squawking waterbirds wheeling above the waves.
Miramar is also a great place to get some evening grub – the mini food street opposite Sharada Mandir School has carts serving some great pav bhaji, ragda patties, ice golas, shawarma, and all kinds of chaat (the sev puri here is finger-licking good!).
An Age-Old Cafe Culture
One of my favourite childhood memories is of stopping a paowalla or a poder (Goan baker) on his bicycle to buy pao (a local bread), smearing it with butter, and savouring it with either homemade mangad (a type of mango jam), spicy patal bhaji (curried legumes) or mushroom xacutti (a local gravy).
The deceptively delicious combination of bhaji-pao, chao (tea) and sides such as batata-vada or mirsang is ever-present on the menus of all the cafes in Panjim — although called cafes, these modest eateries are nothing like their counterparts in big cities. A part of Panjim’s living heritage, these cafes serve small vegetarian meals throughout the day and inspire deep affection from its residents. My recommendations? Cafe Bhonsle and Cafe Tato’s.
A Monsoon Ferryboat Ride Across the Mandovi
During the precious weeks of monsoon, the people of Panjim enjoy a near-total respite from the neon-lit throngs of the tourist season. It is a season of playful rivers glistening silver, of drenched paddy fields, and of exuberant festivals (sao joao and sangodd) replete with laughter and song.
It is also the season when one can experience the frugal magic of a ferryboat (free for pedestrians) ride to the Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary.
Just upriver from Panjim, this wildly overgrown mangrove forest on the Chorao island is home to a small number of crocodiles and over 100 species of birds from the ubiquitous egrets and herons to the colourful kingfishers and drongos.
A Tryst With Heritage and History
Located opposite the ferry wharf on Panjim’s riverfront, the Institute Menezes Braganza is named after one of Goa’s most respected freedom fighters. A cradle for intellectuals from all aspects of Goa’s society, it is also where Asia’s first public library in Asia was inaugurated in 1832. I have fond memories of hours spent exploring its stunning collection of precious paintings, ancient antiques and multilingual books.
Another architectural icon close to my heart is Kala Academy, Panjim’s premier cultural institution and centre for performing arts that is also situated on the riverfront. Designed by renown architect Charles Correa, it houses three venues: Dinanath Mangeshkar Kala Mandir, the Open Amphitheatre and the Exhibition Hall that host a spectrum of concerts, competitions and exhibitions all year round.
Yet another must-see building is the Mhamai Kamat house. With classical tree-lined courtyards, ancient kitchens and a timeless, laterite-lined well, the 17th-century landmark has hosted people from all walks of life and is home to one of Goa’s oldest surviving joint families.
Interestingly, in an over 150-year-old tradition, the Mhamai Kamats throw open their doors to over a 1,000 visitors of every faith on the occasion of Anant Chaturdashi every year. Traditional meals (prepared from over 14 local vegetables) are cooked by Saraswat chefs brought all the way from Karnataka and served to all visitors, from the richest to the poorest, free of cost.
Stargazing and Savouring Susegad
My favourite summer memories are of lazy days spent on the beaches, of eating freshly prepared seafood and of frolicking in the warm ocean — an experience that exemplifies susegad, a term used by Goans to describe a laidback attitude to life. In Goa, nobody works between 2 pm to 5 pm as the afternoon siesta is sacred!
Susegad is also why most roads in Panjim rarely see vehicular movement during the hot afternoon hours.
An inspired way to live, susegad is something I try to reconnect with whenever I return to Goa. And one of my favourite ways to do this is to go stargazing at Dona Paula. A rocky headland flanked by the river Zuari and river Mandovi sweeping into the infinite spread of the Arabian Sea, this ageing jetty offers some truly breathtaking views.
At night, the sky seen from Dona Paula’s whitewashed viewing point (perched at a height) is almost always a deep, cloudless indigo and is lit up by more stars than you’d think possible to see in a city. There is something so relaxing about listening to the sound of the waves crashing against the jetty as you ponder the wonders of the celestial world!
The Best Food In Town
“You can’t think until you’ve eaten well” is a very popular proverb in Goa, and rightly so. From rare traditional recipes to scrumptious seafood, Panjim has it all. Here are my three top picks to dine at the next time you are in the Goan capital, places sure to delight your tastebuds!
Ritz Classic
This place is hands down my favourite place to eat in Panjim. A local landmark for fresh and traditional Goan cuisine, this unpretentious restaurant can be identified by the snaking queues outside at lunchtime. Ritz’s fabulous Fish Thali abounds with the goodness of four types of seafood prepared in varied forms, besides a deliciously tangy sol kadi and kismur (dried shrimp salad).
A tiny yet tastefully decorated eatery, Kokni Canteen’s highly satisfying, homely meals come highly recommended. Its lunchtime staple, the xit-kodi (literally, rice-curry) thali, is made of the freshest catch while its serradura (a crumbly pudding) is quite possibly the best in town. Seafood seekers, don’t miss this one!
Viva Panjim
Set in an old heritage house in the bylanes of Fountainhas, Viva Panjim offers rare local specialities like stuffed karela, feijoida, piexe, torradine and arroz com chouris along with old favourites like balchao, cafreal and caldin. Order your drink, ask what’s the catch of the day, and order it rava fried for a mouth watering meal. Definitely a must-visit for those on a quest to sample the authentic local cuisine.
Tip: For speciality bakes and snacks of excellent quality, head to Pastry Cottage, Mr Bakers and Cafe Central (the oldest bakery in Panjim).
Panjim is a culturally dynamic city, with its own impressive traditions and a packed festive calendar. There is the famous Goa Carnival, a dazzlingly animated blend of tradition and culture that honours Goan life. The parade opens in Panaji and the party continues downwards to Margao, with energy levels to match Brazil’s Mardi Gras and life-sized floats fashioned after dragons, boats and even food.
The lesser-known but equally fun Shigmotsav is a folk festival that celebrates the onset of spring. The spectacular Shigmo floats are elaborately built and depict scenes from mythologies. The parades consist of traditional folk and street dancers, dancing on the tunes of Dhol tashas,flutes, and other traditional instruments.
Panjim also hosts some of India’s most ambitious literary and artistic events. In many ways, it was the International Film Festival of India, that started it off. After Goa became its permanent venue in 2004, the state government restored the heritage building (that used to house Asia’s first medical college) to be the festival’s home. Other landmark events are the Serendipity Arts Festival and the Goa Arts and Literature Festival.
So the next time you are in Panjim, don’t forget to try these locally loved experiences!
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I was about 10 when I moved to Tiruchirappalli. I didn’t know the language and knew no one except my parents and my brother. I was reluctant to mingle with the neighbourhood kids thanks to my language barrier. But I was included in the gang with no reluctance at all, for which I am grateful to this day.
And it’s not just them, but the entire town of Tiruchirappalli is always warm and welcoming. Trichy, as it’s affectionately called, sits almost in the middle of Tamil Nadu and is neither too big to get lost in, nor small enough to be explored in a single afternoon.
The warm city of memories
A city, for me, is not just a habitat for different people. It’s a place in time where people have evolved and changed, which speaks of this history through its buildings and culture. It reminds us that we aren’t the first ones here, nor will we be the last.
For me, exploring Trichy brought out aspects in me that even I didn’t know existed. Here are some of them:
The Weekend Vacationer
Sitting in the middle of the state (or even in a room) has its advantages. Whether it was when my brother retreated from his workplace, or during my college weekends, we could always quickly choose different places to go.
The ride to Pachamalai and the waterfalls on the hill.
A quick turn of the accelerator to the west and we would find ourselves on the quiet hills of Pachamalai alongside a waterfall, roasting some barbecue. To the east, a short trip would land us at the oldest dam in the world– Kallanai, which was built in the 2nd century AD, where we can bask on the edge of the river island with some local fried fish.
And not to forget the majestic Cauvery bridge, where, when the water flow drops, you can munch away your time on the bridge.
The Sri Ranagam Temple with Cauvery River in the Foreground
And in the monsoons, you can leap from short bridges into the river with the locals for a swim. However, extreme caution is advised in river swimming.
The Photographer
When it comes to Trichy, one thing cannot go unmentioned – the amazing temples. Trichy is an ancient city which had many historic rulers. Its temples serve as a connection between the people who built it and the ones who admire it to this day.
From the world’s largest functioning temple – Sri Ranganathar Swamy Temple in Sri Rangam – to the famous Pilliyar Temple on Rock Fort (a 3.8 billion-year-old formation of rocks), the architectural marvels would inspire anyone to take up photography. I know it did for me.
To reach the footsteps of the Rock Fort temple, you have to go through the famous Main-Guard Gate bazaar. And you will love it if have your camera with you. Always bustling with people and roadside stores, the bazaar and the Singarathope near it are the places to fall in love with street photography.
The Cultural Enthusiast
Speaking of the Main-Guard bazaar, the foodie in you ought to come alive in Trichy as well. From Theppakulam to the West Boulevard road, the streets are dotted with pushcarts with some unique styles of food.
The Burma food stalls will also excite your palate, and they have a history behind them.
Burma refugees came to south India in the 1960s, and with them, the delectable Burmese cuisine took over Trichy. Their mouth-watering Attho noodle, Mohingha or the fever-killing soup hinncho will make you want to set up your home nearby.
The Burmese Attho Noodles and the tingling Lemon rice.
And in Puthur, at certain times of the month, the roads will be blocked by temple festivals and exhibitions. And to keep the crowds happy, delicious local food goes around. You can witness the culture of Tamil Nadu in all its glory while being filled with amazing local cuisine.
Whether it was Burmese culture or Tamil culture, it made me curious about the lifestyles that envelop different parts of the world. I wanted to learn and expose myself to different cultures, not just for the food, but for the morals as well
The History Buff
Apart from historic temples, Trichy is a city filled with history –
from the bronze age to modern day. And if you want to explore Trichy, historical facts will induce awe in your journey.
Have a look at the Uyyakondan canal, traversing 71 kilometres, it was built by the Cholan empire a thousand years ago. Or the eye-pleasing Lady of Lourdes church, built in 1840 is a replica of St Lourdes church in France. Also the Natharvali Mosque, which is 900 years old and contains a hand-written Quran from the 11th century.
Trichy inspired me to read more about history and learn the lives that lived thousands of years ago. And I’m pretty sure it will induce the same nostalgia even in those who have never visited the city before.
So in the end, Trichy has taught me some amazing things in life – making me more relaxed, inspiring me to take up a hobby that I love and helping me get over my reluctance to meet new people.
I only wish people visiting, not only Trichy, but any city, will go back with stories and lessons in their memories and would have learnt something that they otherwise wouldn’t have.
We love our city, and we bet you love yours too. And since cities are meant to be experienced and not just seen, this Valentine’s Day, The Better India is celebrating the unique experiences — places, food and activities — that define 14 Indian cities!
So VOTE for your favourite city, SHARE what you love about it and TELL us your ideas for making it even better!
“Auroville will be the place of an unending education, of constant progress, a youth that never ages.” – Auroville Charter, 1968
About 50 years ago, on a sprawling sun-baked plateau north of Pondicherry, an advertisement was hammered onto the trunk of solitary banyan tree stood guard. Local folklore has it that the young tree sent out a call for help that was received by Mirra Alfassa in Sri Aurobindo Ashram.
Known to her followers as the Mother, the woman responded to the tree’s call and in doing so, she found the place she was looking for — the foundation for a universal township “where men and women of all countries are able to live in peace and progressive harmony, above all creeds, all politics and all nationalities.”
This unique city would go on to become famous as Auroville, the tangible culmination of the spiritual collaboration between the Mother and Sri Aurobindo (an influential leader of the Indian movement for Independence).
Here’s the fascinating story of how many experiments, many challenges and one powerful vision forged the ‘City of Dawn’ — in French, ‘aurore‘ means dawn and ‘ville‘ means city.
Auroville had its genesis in a meeting between the two great minds in March 1914 — a time when Sri Aurobindo had sought refuge in the then-French dominion of Pondicherry to escape arrest by the British.
After he passed away in 1950, it was the Mother who took on the task of bringing his idea of a “universal town” to fruition. Her guiding principles were Sri Aurobindo’s ideal of human unity, his emphasis on cultural collaboration and his vision of India as a spiritual leader of the world.
Interestingly, she was over 90 when she started work with architect Roger Anger to chalk out a blueprint for a city of 50,000 people!
For the next few years, work on Auroville progressed rapidly under the Mother’s able guidance. And finally, on February 28, 1968, the township was formally inaugrated. Over 5,000 people from 124 countries (including India) gathered in the open amphitheatre next to the banyan tree to listen to the Mother read from The Auroville Charter and witness the city of the future being born.
To signify that the township belonged to none in particular but to humanity as a whole, these delegated also deposited a handful of their native soil into a marble-clad urn at the amphitheatre. An exhibition on Auroville and its city plan was displayed below an blue canopy erected among the trees.
In the years that followed, regardless of which government was in power, Auroville continued to flourish. The pioneering residents of the township joined hands with the local villagers and got to work. Accommodations were built, wells were dug, gardens were planted and schools set up.
However, Auroville’s journey to its present state was not without its hurdles. In 1973, after the Mother’s death in 1973, bitter conflict developed between the residents and the township’s ‘parent’ organisation, the Sri Aurobindo Society.
Finally, the Government of India had to step in to end the conflict. In 1988, the Indian Parliament passed the Auroville Foundation Act to make the township a legal entity and safeguard its autonomy.
Today, Auroville is home to over 2,000 people — writers, artists, doctors, engineers, chefs, teachers, farmers, students etc — from over 40 countries, not to mention all regions of India. Closely resembling a lushly-forested university campus, the still-evolving township has few paved roads (most have deliberately been left so) or urban buildings of its own (like police stations or railway stations).
The banyan tree is the geographical centre of the Auroville.
Nonetheless, it does have a pretty town hall, unconventional-looking school buildings, alternative farms, plenty of garden restaurants, and a clutch of single-storey houses. However, the defining feature of Auroville has to be its absolutely surreal meditation hall, Matri Mandir.
Considered the “soul of Auroville”, Matri Mandir is an elaborate gold-plated sphere that took 37 years to see the light of day. The structure comprises 1,415 large gold discs and is suspended above 12 “petals” or themed meditation rooms, each of which is flanked by a themed garden.
Thus, to some onlookers, it looks like a lotus in full bloom while to others, it appears like giant golden golf-ball.
Inside the Matri Mandir lies a huge chamber with gentle streams of water cascading down its white marble walls. Spiral ramps on all sides leading to an utterly silent meditation hall — a cocoon of peace and quietude that is believed to have first appeared in several visions to the Mother.
At its heart is a specially-designed crystal sphere from Germany (the largest optically-perfect glass globe in the world) that catches the sunbeams entering from the top of the dome. Below the sphere, lies a Lotus Pond of marble, with a small crystal sphere mirroring the giant one in the inner chamber above.
Interestingly, nothing in Auroville is owned by any person there. Every single asset in the township is owned by the Auroville Foundation, which, in turn, is owned by the Government of India’s Ministry of Human Resource Development!
Furthermore, the residents of this unique township do not use currency inside Auroville. Instead, they are given account numbers (connected to their main account) and transactions are done via an ‘aurocard’ (that works like a debit card).
Basic healthcare facilities and electricity is free in Auroville. Schooling is also free and there are no exams — kids are encouraged to learn the subjects of their choice and at their own pace. As for the maintenance, the residents provide manpower and make contributions to the foundation on a monthly basis.
Money earned from the daily visitors and guests are also used for the township’s upkeep. Small-scale industries (like hand-made paper, incense sticks etc) have also be set up to raise funds for various projects.
Auroville also the home of many futuristic experiments, from energy and ecology to economics and education. These include a one-of-its-kind collective provisioning operation, Pour Tous, in which members contribute a certain amount monthly and then take whatever they feel they need, without paying for the individual items provided.
Farmlands owned by Auroville produce crops consumed by the township in addition to working as research centres for sustainable agriculture and water conservation. For instance, Buddha Garden is a farm that experiments with sensor-based precision irrigation system — the first crop cycle saw an almost 80% drop in water consumption!
With years of expertise in sustainable development (especially in wind and solar energy generation), Auroville Consulting provides advice and training to organisations such as such as Tamil Nadu Energy Development Agency (TNEDA) and Tamil Nadu Urban Finance and Infrastructure Development Corporation (TNUFIDC).
Moreover, thanks to years of meticulous silviculture, Auroville’s sprawling forests are counted among India’s most successful afforestation project. In fact, its experts have been using this experience in afforestation projects such as the one being implemented with Irula tribesmen near Chinglepet in Tamil Nadu and the National Wastelands Commission in the Palani Hills.
Thus, in many ways, Auroville is slowly but steadily living up to the vision that led to its birth. On February 28, 2018 (the township’s 50th anniversary), as waters from over a 100 countries is poured into an urn at the amphitheatre, the ancient banyan tree will probably be looking on with an immense feeling of satisfaction — a living testament to Auroville’s incredible journey!
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Watering holes have been the gathering place for all sorts of animal species, and the water stream at Anakulam, a small village in Kerala, is no different. The stream is frequented by elephants of all sizes, but that isn’t what makes it special.
Legend has it that by drinking the water of the stream the elephants get a certain ‘high’, and the sight is a spectacle to behold!
For nature lovers, this is the perfect place to relax and take in nature at its best, and also a once in a lifetime opportunity to see elephants like never before!
You can know more about the tuskers of Anakulam by watching the video below!
When we hear the word “mummy”, most of us automatically think of the time-honoured pharaohs of Egypt (all right, some of us may also think of the blockbuster movie, The Mummy). Thanks to these unique relics, modern science has learned a lot about the life and afterlife of ancient Egyptians.
But as it turns out, there’s more to mummies than just the Egypt of yore! While most people are familiar with the ancient Egyptian practice of mummification (a painstaking process of preservation that involves treatments with oils and minerals), there are actually a number of ways in which a body can be mummified.
The most intriguing and eerie one among these techniques is natural self-mummification. Interestingly, India is home to a remarkably well-preserved specimen of this ancient tradition — the Gue mummy of Spiti Valley.
Believed to over 500 years old, this rare natural mummy belongs to Sangha Tenzin, a Buddhist monk who started the self-mummification process while still living!
In 1975, an earthquake in the wind-sculpted Spiti Valley opened up a time-worn tomb in Gue, a little hamlet about 30 miles from the famous Tabo Monastery. Inside lay the mummified body of Sangha Tenzin, with skin intact, teeth visible through open lips and hair on his head. However, it was not until 2004 that the exposed tomb was finally excavated and the mummy removed.
After the resulting furore had settled down, a tiny, box-shaped concrete museum was built amidst the handful of mud houses at Gue. The 500-year-old mummy was then placed inside by the reverential locals, protected by only a thin sheet of glass.
The reason for the mummy being accorded this deep respect? Local folklore, according to which, Sangha Tenzin is said to have sacrificed himself for the survival of the village.
The story goes that he asked his followers to let him mummify himself after a devastating scorpion infestation. When his spirit left his body, it is believed that a rainbow appeared on the horizon following which the scorpions disappeared and the plague ended.
For the uninitiated, the esoteric tradition of natural self-mummification practiced by Nyingma sect of Buddhist monks — called Sokushinbutsu — involves no embalming. It is incredibly difficult process in which the body is compelled to react in such a way that its fats and fluids reduce at a constant rate.
It begins with the monk ceasing to to eat barley, rice and legumes (food that add fat to the body).This is because fat putrefies after death and so removing the fat from the body helps in preserving it better. This also helps in reducing the size of organs to such an extent that the desiccated body resists decomposition.
The body in kept in a seated posture (with a restrainer — called gomtag — around the neck and the thighs) so that the monk can continue to meditate. During this period of slow starvation, the monk runs candles along his skin to help it gradually dry out. A special diet (herbs, roots and tree-sap that act as deterrent to flesh-eating insects) is also given towards the end to deplete moisture in the body and preserve the meat on the bone.
Following his death, the monk is carefully placed in an underground room and allowed to dry out further for three years, before being treated with candles again. With time, the physical form literally becomes a statue in prayer, a ‘living Buddha’ as these mummies are now known as.
Interestingly, less than thirty of these self-mummified monks have been found around the world. Most of them have been found in Northern Honshu, an island in Japan whose monks also follows this practice of natural mummification.
The high levels of residual nitrogen (indicative of prolonged starvation) in Sangha Tenzin’s body shows that he followed this procedure to mummify himself.
Presently, the mummy shows little deterioration, despite having no artificial preservation and exposure to the elements. Its excellent state is probably due to the clean air, low humidity and extremely cold climate of the surrounding high-altitude desert.
As such, visitors to Gue’s unique museum can clearly observe Tenzin’s well-preserved form — from its intact head of hair and empty eye sockets to the darkened, taut skin on its broad forehead. As it sits firmly with its fist around one leg, chin resting on its knee, the mummified monk seems to be lost in contemplation as he gazes out at the surreal landscape beyond.
So if you plan to visit Spiti Valley, remember to make a detour to Gue and spend some time with India’s only naturalised mummy!
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What could be a better embodiment of a constant traveller than the Indian milkweed, which goes along wherever the wind takes it?
An ‘appooppanthaadi’ as they call it in Malayalam, is a fascinating little thing that has caught the fancy of generations of kids and adults, for its implausible ability to surface at the unlikeliest of places. And as far as tracing the journey of these little seed carrier is concerned, it is as good as a lost cause.
How amazing would it be if one could travel with carefree abandon like the humble appooppanthaadi and soar away to places lesser known to quench the wanderlust within?
It has never been a better time for those bitten by the travel bug, as more and more people are packing their bags and exploring new places, either in packs or solo. However, concerns such as cost and safety aspects deter many from travelling in India, especially women.
One all-women travel group based in Thiruvananthapuram is removing all such misgivings and is helping women fulfil their travelling goals fearlessly and that too, on a light budget!
Taking the moniker of fuzzy seed carrier, Appooppanthaadi is the brainchild of Sajna Ali, whose own thirst for travelling and exploring lesser-known places gave birth to the venture.
Travel enthusiast, Sajna Ali.
A software engineer by profession, Sajna has been single-handedly organising all-women tours across the country for the last two years and has led a diverse crew of women to lesser-explored destinations from Gandikota, Nilambur, St. Mary’s Island, Yellappetty, Chitharal, Meeshapulimala and Dhanushkodi in the south to far-flung places like Valley of Flowers in Uttarakhand and Tawang, Nagaland.
“Travelling had always been something that I wanted to pursue but more often than not, trips planned with friends never worked out as someone or the other would always back out at the last moment. This futile dependence on others on repeated occasions further cemented my desire to head out on my own, and nothing was more exhilarating for me to finally realise that you don’t really need anyone to travel when you have made up your mind,” says Sajna to The Better India.
The next four years, she went to a lot of places without burning a hole in her pocket and started posting her travel exploits on a blog, and that is when requests to join Sajna on her next trip started swarming in.
Sajna (in red) with her troop of appooppanthaadis at Chikmagalur. Courtesy: Appooppanthaadi.
“Most of these were from women, who really wanted to travel but had some reason or the other holding them back. That’s when the idea of an all-women travel group cropped up, through which women could not just travel to new, unexplored vistas but also feel liberated through the experience,” Sajna explains.
A one-day trip to Rosemala in Kollam district was the starting point. Although close to 20-22 women had initially shown interest, only eight women turned up, but it was an immensely exhilarating trip for everyone. Slowly, word of mouth began working in favour of Sajna, who found a lot of women approaching her for trips after finding great reviews from friends who had travelled with Appooppanthaadi.
Since then, Sajna has organised 76 trips with over 750 women, amid which one of the travellers included a 65-year-old lady who showed no qualms to trek all the way atop a hill.
At Kolukkumala, Theni district of Tamil Nadu. Courtesy: Appooppanthaadi.
“When people showcase apprehension about age and health being a factor, I take this lady’s example. If she can do it, each one of us can do it too. I am just providing a means for every woman out there to let go of her inhibitions and travel intrepidly,” she adds.
One thing that Sajna specifies is that none of the trips organised by Appooppanthaadi is fancy or luxury-laced. “From vehicles to accommodation and food, everything is extremely budget-friendly. For a true-blue traveller, it’s all about the experience, which can be attained even through most frugal arrangements, and that has been my objective right from the start,” she says.
With an active Facebook page and WhatsApp group notifying members about each upcoming trip, Sajna has been the solo force holding the reins of Appooppanthaadi.
A trek to Meeshapulimala. Courtesy: Appooppanthaadi.
“At this point, there is an upcoming trip almost every weekend. From posting an event and preparing its itinerary to arranging accommodation, food and vehicles, I take care of all the responsibilities. As for the posters for each trip, there are three ‘appooppanthaadis’ in the group who have been helping me out,” she laughs.
While one-day trips typically take Sajna half a day to make arrangements, preparations for long trips spanning between 4-9 days take 1 or 2 days to plan. As these trips began to consume a significant portion of her time, Sajna decided to quit her corporate job in Technopark and invest all her time for Appooppanthaadi six months ago.
Initially, her parents were slightly apprehensive about a single woman handling such great responsibilities.
At Kashi. Courtesy: Appooppanthaadi.
But as time passed by, she found full support from them. In fact, it had been quite gratifying for Sajna when she could finally convince her mother to be part of one of the tours last month.
Providing women with a chance to explore boundlessly without being lumbered down by inner fears or doubts, what Sajna feels is the takeaway for these travellers is the collective growth along with many friendships forged on the way.
“I have always felt that travelling has this innate quality of empowering oneself. Plus these trips have been a learning curve for everyone, including me. After returning, many professed their gratitude and that they found a renewed sense of freedom that was missing in their lives. And all of us have remained in touch,” Sajna proudly adds.
At present, Appooppanthaadi’s tours are contained within the country, but Sajna intends to chalk down international destinations soon.
At Gandikota, India’s Grand Canyon. Courtesy: Appooppanthaadi.
“Even here, what I’m looking at are places that are not run over by regular tourists. It is a project that I’m working on and hopefully by the end of this year, we shall head abroad soon,” she adds.
Giving wings to countless women to chase wanderlust like the carefree milkweed, Appooppanthaadi is quietly yet strongly nullifying the idea that travelling in India for women is impossible.
To know more about Appooppanthaadi, you can check the Facebook page. For further queries and interests related to upcoming tours, you can call or WhatsApp at 09633779640.
Winter mornings are stressful; especially if you are like me, a quintessential anti-morning person.
Now, let’s add a deadline in the morning as well, and this becomes a full-blown tragedy!
Last November, I was on a deadline. My responsibility? To book a Forest Rest House (FRH) inside the famed Corbett Tiger Reserve.
The rules of the game were simple. Bookings open for Indians 45 days in advance and at 10 a.m. sharp. The preference, of course, was the Dhikala Forest Lodge. Located in the core of the dense forest of the National Park, Dhikala is one of the most unique forest accommodations in the world.
It is a well-known fact that it is apparently next to impossible to get rooms in Dhikala because it is that famous and I was naïve enough to believe that I would be able to book it. Of course, that did not happen!
My father-in-law and my wife were my companions for the planned trip. Well, one must perform or perish, so in my haste, I booked a night’s stay in an FRH at Halduparao, inside the Sonanadi zone which is the northern part of the Corbett Tiger Reserve. These were obscure names, never had heard of them, but I had no option and had to settle for the relatively unknown.
I did my research. The entry to Halduparao is from the Lansdowne side of Corbett and not from Ramnagar. There is no canteen there, and one has to carry rations for the stay. I begin to mourn our ill luck and pronounce this trip as a misadventure. “Not at all,” says my jungle-obsessed father-in-law, “This is a great adventure!”
Kripal Singh has served the Government and the Forest Department for 42 years. He retired a couple of years ago, and he takes tourists inside the Sonanadi Zone. He is our guide for a day and a half. The two retired oldies hit it off and begin to discuss every possible topic under the sun.
As this continues, I am semi-frozen on the back of an open-hooded Gypsy being driven down from Lansdowne at dawn. Our destination is the Vatan Vasa gate of the tiger reserve. From there it is another 9 km inside the jungle to Halduparao FRH.
With only a day and a half at our disposal we had to make the most of it, and if possible, arm wrestle a tiger as well. Kripal ji had already declared there are many tigers in this zone and it was only a matter of luck. Sightings were frequent on our way to Halduparao. There were so many that I had lost count. Not tigers, but deer.
Barking ones, silent ones, with antlers, without antlers, and they frequently posed for us.
The 9 km drive with frequent stops and detours in between was proving to be much more than what I had bargained for. With river crossings and elephant dung marking the route, we eventually reached a place called Kakridhang Chaur. As the name suggests, this was a magical Palian riverbed, flanked over by grassland and is frequented by wild animals in the summer.
By the time we reached Halduparao after the morning escapade, plans were already in place for an evening Tiger chase, and all of us were brimming with hope.
Finally, we reached the Haladuparao FRH. Nestled over a cliff alongside the river, circumvented by electrical fencing, it was something that I had never experienced before.
A small bungalow with two rooms and a living space and to my delight, it turned out we were the only ones to cherish that small piece of the Himalayan forest.
Rations were deposited with the caretaker and lunch was cooked and eaten. We explored the nearby elephant corridor and went back to the river bed. This time nearing sundown more deer were there to welcome us. No tigers yet.
Darkness falls, and the deafening silence of the reserve forest grips us. It is deafening and at times unbearable. That’s the city in me. It’s a silence which is unusual, uncomfortable but eventually traps you like a lullaby. I walked the compound of the FRH and spent some time gazing at stars. It is an excellent habit to get into as we see so little of the elusive night sky these days.
The last safari was planned at dawn the next morning. While Kripal was aching for a glimpse of the big cat, I was already overwhelmed with what the forest had to offer but like a real consumerist had fallen for the lucky draw.
Kakridhang Chaur was unreal that morning as the sun rose over the grasslands with mist fuming up over the river bed.
We simply waited there for as long as possible processing the imagery. More deer welcomed us along the way, and slowly we made our way back. It was time to pack up and leave the tiger reserve, but we only had smiles on our faces and a sense of accomplishment.
As a tourist, it can be exasperating not to see the big cat. But the cat is merely the camouflage which draws city slickers to the jungle. No safari or overnight trip can do justice to what we are trying to preserve. The mysteries of the forest must remain unsolved, and I had the immense pleasure of seeing the invisible tigers of Garhwal. I have promised to return.
#Repost @seth_kanishk (@get_repost) ・・・ Hands down to the best venue ever with even better people! #kanishksethtrio had a wonderful time performing for both the visually impaired and sighted people at this special trip organised by @bat_travels at Moonstone Hammock, Karjat. 
– @karthik_shriram . . . . . . . #kanishkseth #sufimusic #electronicmusic #instamusic #trancesufinight #trancemusic #indie #IndieMusic #moonstonehammock #karjat #travelmusic #battravels #sufielectronic #amirkhusrow #sufipoetry #battravels
