As kids, most of us eagerly looked forward to summer vacations. Besides offering a long break from homework and uniforms, the best and most exciting part was that these trips brought together families from different ends of the world.
We have spent days and nights counting down to the beginning of the break, fervently waiting to meet our cousins and make unforgettable travel memories.
Soon enough, the summer of 2018 will be here too and keeping that in mind, Indian Railway Catering and Tourism Corporation (IRCTC), the online ticketing handle of Indian Railways, has planned to roll out special tourist trains which will cover important religious and leisure destinations under diverse tour circuits across the country.
Here are the itineraries of some of the ‘Bharat Darshan’ special tourist trains, for which you can book the tickets soon:
Beginning the journey from Renigunta in Chittoor district at 00:05 hours on April 3, the places covered in the circuit include Aurangabad, Dwarka, Nanded, Nasik, Parli, Pune, Somnath, and Ujjain. The journey will conclude on April 14 with the end stop being Vijayawada. The standard cost of a ticket for a single person is ₹13,020.
2. Ganga Yamuna Yatra
Commencing from Renigunta at 00:05 hours on April 18, this train will cover Agra, Mathura, New Delhi, Haridwar, Ayodhya, Prayag, Varanasi and Gaya and return to Secunderabad on April 29. The standard cost of a ticket for a single person is ₹11,340.
3. Dakshina Bharat Yatra
The third train will originate from Secunderabad 00:05 hours on May 4 and return to Vijayawada on May 12. Covering popular tourist sites like Guruvayur, Kanyakumari, Madurai, Rameswaram, Thanjavur, Tiruchirappalli, Tirupati, and Thiruvananthapuram, your dreams of travelling through South India might finally be fulfilled through this train. The standard cost of ticket for a single person is ₹8,505.
The ticket price includes the cost of the night stay, food, transport, tour escort, and train security. Also, no fare is applicable for children below the age of 5 years.
You can book your tickets on the IRCTC website, and can also find out about other special tourist trains by IRCTC here.
We’ve heard of the mysteries of the Bermuda Triangle, where hundreds of ships that enter, seem to disappear under strange circumstances—but did you know that India is not without its share of mysteries?
Here are 11 places around India which have a mysterious allure!
As per government order, it is prohibited for anyone to enter the fort before sunrise and after sunset. Why? Because rumour has it that the place is haunted, and there has been a history of mysterious events happening at the fort.
Built by Man Singh I, one of the gems of Akbar’s court, the fort is shrouded in myths. One popular story among the locals is that there was once a wizard, who fell in love with the princess of Bhangarh. When she came to the market to buy ittar (perfume), he switched it with a love potion.
The princess sensed a trap and threw the bottle onto a boulder, which rolled down and crushed the wizard. Before he died, he cursed the palace, declaring that no one would be able to live there. It was after this that the fort came under attack, and all the members inside were killed, including the princess.
Another story is that a holy man by the name of Bala Balau Nath dictated that no house within the precincts of the fort should be made taller than his house. If the shadow of another building fell on his home, the entire fort town would be destroyed.
Lepakshi is one of the architectural wonders of India. With murals on the walls and inscriptions on the pillars, the temple filled with its own mysterious secrets. Located within the temple, is a hanging pillar. It does not touch the ground, and looks as though it is floating!
People come from far and wide, just to pass objects under the pillar; it is considered good luck. Lepakshi itself holds significance in Hindu mythology. It is said that when the bird Jatayu fell in battle, Rama found him at this spot and said, “Le Pakshi”, meaning “Arise, bird.”
The Chandipur beach in Orissa has been nicknamed the “hide and seek” beach for a good reason. The water at this beach recedes by 5 kilometres every day, in between the high tide and the low tide. This is a rare phenomenon!
The sea will literally disappear before your eyes, exposing a melting pot of different species. One can even walk on the waterbed that is left behind, giving the illusion of walking on water!
Jatinga is a village in Assam with lush green hills, beautiful scenery, and a cool climate—but that’s not why it is famous. This little Assamese village is home to one of India’s greatest mysteries.
During the monsoon season, just after sunset, migratory birds commit mass suicide. They drop from the sky and plummet to their deaths—a phenomenon that till date, doesn’t have a completely comprehensive explanation.
The locals believed that the birds were attacked by mysterious evil spirits, while scientists believe that the birds become disoriented by the monsoon fog. Others say the lights in the village attract the birds so much that they fly head-on, crashing into the ground below.
Even if this were true, it doesn’t explain why the birds fly at night or choose to get stuck in the same location every year.
This village in Kerala is located in the Malappuram district in Kerala. At first glance, it is just a normal village with people going about their daily work. However, upon closer glance you’ll start seeing double—the village has a very high population of twins! The estimated population is around 2000, and there are about 200 pairs of twins!
Scientists are not yet sure of how this phenomenon occurred, though some believe that the water has special chemical properties that make a person more likely to give birth to twins.
A famous legend which surrounds Kuldhara is that the villagers who lived there disappeared overnight! Today, the abandoned village in Rajasthan still stands, though it is in ruins.
The village was once occupied by Paliwal Brahmins and thrived as a place of agriculture. However, some believe that Kuldhara was abandoned due to the lack of water and the excessive taxes imposed by a certain diwan, named Salim Singh.
Another version of what happened in Kuldhara is that the evil Salim Singh set his eyes on a village girl and sent his guards to force the villagers to hand her over. The villagers asked the guards to return the next day and cleared the village overnight. Upon leaving, the Brahmins cast a curse so that no other could inhibit the land.
Since then, there have been rumours of unusual activity, mysterious voices, and strange shadows that can be observed in the abandoned village—and interestingly enough, no one has tried to reinhabit the place.
While driving, we were taught to always put on the handbrake, so that the car wouldn’t go careening down a slope. However, at the Magnetic Hill in Ladakh, slipping down a slope is the last of your worries—because here, cars are pulled upwards!
As the superstitions go, some of the locals believe that the road was once connected to heaven. Those who were deemed worthy were immediately pulled onto the path. Another more scientifically based theory is that the magnetic force within the hill pulls cars towards it.
Of course, others say that it is the product of an optical illusion which makes a downslope seem like an upslope. Either way, the beauty of this phenomenon cannot be denied.
This is one of the most open communities in India—literally! The entire village has absolutely no doors, only door frames and all their possessions are kept open. Even the local bank is kept open, although assets are placed in lockers. Despite this, the village has a very low crime rate.
The villagers believe that the area is under the protection of Lord Shani, who punishes anyone who tries to steal. In the past, those who have stolen have had terrible things happen to them, from vomiting blood to incurring mysterious diseases.
Some villagers in the past have tried to change their ways by installing doors. However, it is met with resistance by others—who believe that Lord Shani is enough to protect them.
The Shettihalli Rosary Church is also known as the Drowning Church. Built in the 1800s by French missionaries, the church was abandoned when a reservoir was constructed in the area.
Since then, during the monsoon season, the church is partially submerged in water! Today, it is frequented by a few who dare to travel off the beaten track. The church itself is modelled after Gothic architecture and makes for a mysterious atmosphere.
Snakes find a refuge in Shetpal, a small village with a population of a little more than 2000 people. Every home has a special section built, just in case a snake should come by seeking refuge. They call this the “Devasthan.”
The snakes themselves move about without fear and are revered by the residents. Children play with cobras, and yet, till date, there has been no case of snake bites! The villagers believe that it is because both man and snake carry mutual respect for each other.
The Roopkund lake is a glacial lake located high up in the mountains of Uttarakhand. Today, it is a popular trekking destination. While the lake itself is 2 metres deep and is covered in ice for most of the year when the snow melts remnants of human skeletons can be seen.
A local legend goes that Raja Jasdhaval, the king of Kanauj, along with his pregnant wife, servants, and a dance troupe, were on a pilgrimage to the Nanda Devi shrine.
The travelling party, which amounted to more than 300 people, got stuck in a terrible hailstorm, and all perished near Roopkund lake. It is their bones that are in the lake today.
If you are planning a trip from Delhi to Mumbai, or any destination around it, you better get your car keys out. The Union Road Transport and Highways Ministry is ensuring that the travel time between the two major Indian cities will be cut by almost by half!
Yes, you read that right. The Ministry is currently working on a Super Expressway that will make every road trip between Delhi and Mumbai a dream come true, and you will be able to cover the distance—approximately 1410 km—in 12 hours!
Nitin Gadkari, the Minister for Road Transport and Highways, explained the way this Expressway will develop. Speaking to Indiatimes, he said, “In the first phase, Delhi will be connected to Jaipur and Vadodara to Mumbai via super expressways. We plan to construct expressways from Jaipur to Kota in Rajasthan and then from Kota to Vadodara.
This will reduce the travel time between Delhi and Mumbai to less than 12 hours as compared to nearly 24 hours at present.”
Representational image of a highway in Delhi. Source.
Currently, the fastest way to travel (by land) between the two cities is to board the Rajdhani express. This superfast train takes passengers from Mumbai to Delhi (and vice versa) in approximately 16 hours. However, the Super Expressway is all set to beat Indian Railways in this regard!
The Ministry is looking at this project from several angles. Along with reducing the travel time by almost half, the project will bring home the standards of developed nations like USA and Germany.
The calculation of the road construction, for example, will be different than what it used to be. “Across the world, the lane formula is used to calculate road construction, but we calculate the linear length in India,” Gadkari told the Economic Times. He added that,
“This means if we construct 10 km of 14 lanes and 10 km of two lanes, it is counted only as 10 km and the length of all lanes is not taken into account.
Representational image of a highway in Delhi. Source.
The new formula will be worked out by the National Highways Authority of India.”
The authorities are currently working on the Delhi-Jaipur Super Expressway, and it is expected to be completed in 15 months. The cement and concrete used for it is the same quality that was used for the construction of the Mumbai-Pune Expressway.
Again, taking international standards into consideration, the Super Expressway will have 3.5-metre-wide lanes. “Internationally, the one standard lane width in the US is 3.7 metres and varies between 2.75 to 3.25 metres in Europe. As per Indian standards, the width of one lane is prescribed as 3.5 metres,” Gadkari explained.
This project is definitely something to look forward to, and cutting down travel time by half on the road, will not only reduce our travel woes but will also be a very convenient way to link together two cities that are of strategic, financial and political importance to the country.
Many decades ago, on the back of mules and across the mighty Himalayas, from a secretive land that few people had ever seen, hundreds of precious manuscripts, written in palm leaf with gold and silver powder, made their way to India. It was a treasure trove of Buddhist literature of a kind perhaps never before seen here. And with the subsequent destruction of Tibetan culture by China, perhaps such a trove will never be seen again.
This, and many more stunning achievements in the fields of exploration, literature and learning, was thanks to Rahul Sankrityayan.
The word prolific doesn’t even begin to capture the scope of Sankrityayan’s contribution to Indian scholarship and literature, especially travel writing.Sankrityayan wrote 140 books of high scholarly value. He learned how to read, write and speak in nearly 30 languages – including Sanskrit, Pali, Tamil, Tibetan, Russian, Arabic, Persian, Urdu, French, English, Hindi (his language of choice) and German, and translated seminal works in these languages.
And this happened alongside his extensive travels to Tibet, East Asia, Central Asia and Russia, his participation in the Indian freedom movement and even two jail terms by the British. Oh, and he only acquired formal education until middle school!
It’s a matter of shame that many Indians, especially those in academia, have done little to preserve the memory of probably one of the greatest travellers, thinkers and scholars this land has ever produced.
Rahul Sankrityayan (Source: Wikimedia Commons)
Fortunately, there is now a concerted effort to revive this Mahapandit’s (great scholar) life’s work. Since March 17, the Indira Gandhi National Centre of Arts has opened an exhibition showcasing all the rare statues, religious scrolls, manuscripts, and xylographs he collected during his extensive travels through the first half of the 20th century across Central Asia, Tibet, Europe, East Asia, and Russia, among many other regions.
These precious artefacts will be on display until April 15 (the date recently extended), the day after his 56th death anniversary. What the exhibition offers visitors is a peek into the remarkable mind of a scholar not bound by any limits.
This polymath and polyglot lived an astonishing life. Considered a pioneer of the Hindi travelogue with his first book ‘Tibbat Mein Sawa Varsh’ (published in 1932), after the Mahapandit’s travels to Tibet in the late 1920s, this was a man who was much more than just a travel writer.
Rahul Sankrityayan was born on April 9, 1893, in a small village of Azamgarh district, Uttar Pradesh, as Kedar Pandey. Acquiring formal education only until middle school, he left home in his teens and settled in Varanasi, where he learnt Sanskrit with a group of other students.
His life took a different turn after a chance meeting with the leader of a wealthy Hindu monastic order from Bihar, who took Sankrityayan under his wing. Here he acquired extensive knowledge of Sanskrit and the major cannons of Hindu traditions. The mahant rechristened him Swami Ramodaras and anointed him to take over the monastic order.
However, the explorer in him shunned the idea and decided to travel south to Tamil Nadu, where he not only explored all the major religious institutions but also acquired further knowledge of the Vedantic traditions and learnt Tamil.
Disillusioned with all the ritualism associated with these traditions, he gave it all up and joined the Arya Samaj, a Hindu reformist order, in 1915. It was at this point, where he began writing extensively in Hindi and Urdu under the moniker Kedarnath Vidyarthi.
Bust of Rahul Sankrityayan in Darjeeling. (Source: Wikimedia Commons)
At an Arya Samaj institution in Agra, he learnt the teachings of Swami Dayanand Saraswati and Arabic from a master stationed there. Following a brief foray into the Indian freedom struggle during the Non-Cooperation Movement, where he went to prison twice for anti-British activities, his quest for a life steeped in rationalism took him to Buddhism. It is here where the impact of his life’s work is felt most intensely.
Following his release from prison in 1926, Rahul Sankrityayan travelled extensively, finally landing up in Sri Lanka on a teaching assignment. Thus, began his critical engagement with the major texts of the Buddhist tradition. Here he learnt Pali while restoring and translating ancient texts. It is in Sri Lanka where he took the name of Rahul Sankrityayan.
After spending a few years in Sri Lanka, Sankrityayan’s passion for Buddhist philosophy and his inherent sense of adventure took him to Tibet, a region once forbidden to outsiders. He travelled under extremely difficult conditions on foot for the most part and in disguise.
He lived in Lhasa for a good 15 months – studying, restoring and translating ancient Buddhist texts, while avoiding any contact with the outside world.
“A large number of Buddhist scriptures and texts were lost in the burning of the Nalanda libraries or with the decline of Buddhism in general. Sankrityayan played a crucial role in saving 700-800 manuscripts from Tibet. His contribution in preserving this slice of invaluable history is incredible,” said Professor Radha Banerjee Sarkar, the Head of the East Asia Programme at the Indira Gandhi National Centre for Arts, to the Hindustan Times.
All these precious palm leaf manuscripts were brought back on foot and carried on 22 mules. “Most of the manuscripts he (Sankrityayan) collected were hand-lettered manuscripts or had been printed using carved wood-blocks. A few were written with gold and silver powder. In addition to the scriptural canon, there were histories and texts on metallurgy, medicine, tantra, art astrology, herbology and technical subjects,” says this Indian Express profile.
He went onto visit Tibet four times during his lifetime, collecting more ancient manuscripts, thangkas (intricate Tibetan Buddhist scroll paintings), and other artefacts, which are now stored in the Bihar Research Society in Patna. Some of these artefacts are now on display at the IGNCA. He also went onto write scholarly treatises on these ancient Sanskrit manuscripts carved out on palm leaves, wrote their translations, and ensured their restoration.
He also prepared a Tibetan to Hindi dictionary.
However, the real value of his contribution to the preservation of ancient Buddhist culture comes with the knowledge of what happened to Tibet after the Chinese invasion in the 1950s. We do know about the rampant destruction of Buddhist monasteries, books, manuscripts, and other artefacts, besides the slaughter of monks and scholars that took place at the time.
Rahul Sankrityayan (Source: IGNCA)
Without Rahul Sankrityayan’s contribution, we may have lost vast treasures of a rich culture.
“There are 6,400 or more Tibetan manuscripts lying in a locked room of the Bihar Research Society (beyond the ones on display at the IGNCA). Some of them have been digitised by the National Mission for Manuscripts. Scholars from the Central Institute of Higher Tibetan Studies, Sarnath, have prepared a catalogue too, but that doesn’t quite cover the entire spectrum. What is needed is their increased accessibility and collaborative effort by scholars to translate and restore them. It’s a legacy that must be protected for future generations,” said Jaya Sankrityayan, Rahul’s daughter, to The Indian Express.
Tibetan Buddhist culture certainly owes a huge debt to Rahul Sankrityayan.
His contributions to the preservation of Tibetan Buddhist culture notwithstanding, he is probably best known for his travelogues. Traversing through Malaya, East Asia, Iran, Afghanistan and the erstwhile Soviet Union (Siberia), he redefined and pioneered the Hindi travelogue.
If a remarkable recollection of writings depicting different landscapes, people, cultures and traditions weren’t enough, Sankrityayan also wrote entire treatises on their histories, especially linking Central Asia to India.
Two seminal books—’Volga Se Ganga’ (published in 1942), which painted a vivid picture of how human society evolved from 6000 B.C. to 1942, and ‘Madhya Asia Ka Itihas’ (History of Central Asia) published in 1956-57—are a testament to the man’s scholarship. Both these seminal texts were written in Hindi for an audience which had no exposure to these subjects.
“One of his major contributions was to turn the lens on the way faiths and cultures interconnected, to attempt for a holistic view of the continent. We have a habit of studying iconographies and histories in isolation, which is why we fail to see the way Buddhism and Hinduism interacted. Rahul was perhaps the first person to give a complete view of this interactive history, through his texts, the travels and the artefacts he brought back,” adds Professor Sarkar.
While he won the Sahitya Akademi for ‘Madhya Asia Ka Itihas’, his other seminal text, ‘Volga Se Ganga’, was translated into Bengali, Kannada, Malayalam and Tamil, besides other regional and foreign languages. What these texts did was establish an intrinsic link between India and Central Asia, and how any understanding of one region would be incomplete without establishing a link to the other.
Although recognised for his work during his lifetime (receiving the Padma Bhushan and having a postage stamp issued in his honour a year after his death), this country has done little to remember this remarkable son of India since.
We should change that.
(Edited By Vinayak Hegde)
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One doesn’t need a reason or season to travel to Goa. India’s beloved sunshine state is a hit with every kind of traveller — from party-lovers and foodies to families, couples and singletons who would like to soak up some sun, surf and sand.
But there’s more to this beautiful coastal land than just sun-kissed beaches, great seafood and cheap alcohol. From hidden waterfalls and ancient caves to under-the-radar heritage sites, Goa is a treasure trove of unusual experiences
Here are 10 offbeat destinations that will show you a different yet equally refreshing side of India’s favourite vacation getaway!
Referred to as Sunaparant (or the Golden Land) in ancient literature, Goa is home to several caves and ruins that have slipped into oblivion with the passage of time and the vagaries of nature. The most prominent among these once-hallowed abodes are the Arvalem caves.
Protected by the Archaeological Society of India, the rock-cut chambers (carved into a laterite hill) are also known as the Pandava Caves — folklore has it that these caves once sheltered the Pandavas during their twelve-year exile. Nearby is the picturesque Arvalem Waterfall which cascades over slippery rocks into a lake.
The brainchild of local artist Maendra Jocelino Araujo Alvares, ‘Big Foot’ is the more popular name of Ancestral Goa, a unique museum that showcases the intangible heritage of Goa. Conglomerations of handmade artefacts and clay mannequins display the state’s traditional occupations (like sea salt making, feni distillation etc) and culture (folk dances, crafts etc.)
However, what takes your breath away at Big Foot is the 14-feet-long rock carving of Sant Mirabai created by the curator himself, single-handedly, in just one month. This has won many accolades from national and international institutions, including the record for being the longest laterite sculpture in India by the Limca Book of Records.
A gem of a waterfall, the enchanting Bamanbudo spring lies nestled deep inside the lush forests of the Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary in Canacona. According to locals, the waterfall acquired its name after an elderly person belonging to the Saraswat community was drowned while taking a bath in the waterfall.
With the exception of regular trekkers and hikers from Goa, very few people are aware of the existence of this perennial waterfall. Interestingly, just 500 metres away from the waterfall, lies a sacred grove with a small shrine known as Paika Pann where the local forest-dwelling communities pay obeisance.
If you are tired of beach hopping and would like to see a different kind of watery wonder, then Mayem Lake is where you should be. Cuddled in the lap of Bicholim’s hilly countryside, this emerald-hued lake offers a relaxed encounter with nature at its prettiest. The Champions Yacht Club here also offers an array of watersports to indulge in.
Pedal across the placid waters in Bumper Boats equipped with water guns, play Kayak Polo or if you’re hungry, dine onboard a barbecue leisure boat called BBQ Donut! You can also try your hand at bird watching or take a quick detour to the nearby village of Kumbharwado (where most of the state’s terracotta Ganesha idols are made).
Just upriver from Panjim, this wildly overgrown mangrove forest on the Chorao island is home to a small number of crocodiles and over 100 species of birds from the ubiquitous egrets and herons to the colourful kingfishers and drongos. Remember to visit the headquarters of Wild Otters, the only NGO in India devoted to “the well-being of otters”.
While its possible to drive directly to the riverine island, its more enjoyable to take the ferry to cross the Mandovi river, free for pedestrians and perhaps the most charming of all the commuter boat rides in the state. Interestingly, Chorao is also famous for korgut rice, a robust variety that flourishes in the brackish waters of the mangrove forest.
Surrounded by the Arabian sea and lush coastal greenery, Fort Tiracol was constructed in the 17th century by Raja Bahadur Khem Sawant Bhonsle. It was later an armed fortress of the Portuguese rulers. Today, the restored fort is home to a heritage hotel, a Baroque-style church, and centuries-old history.
Tiracol fort also played a part in the Goan freedom movement. Freedom fighter Hirve Guruji and other satyagrahis were killed in this fort by the Portuguese on August 5, 1955 for hoisting the Indian flag. A memorial dedicated to them stands at the entrance to the fort.
The drive through the verdant rainforests of Western Ghats brings one to the charming Netravali village in Sanguem taluka. Located in this village is Goa’s bubble lake, popularly known as Budbus or Budbudyachi Tali. This name is derived from the bubbles that rise continuously to the surface in various places in the lake. Strangely enough, they also appear to respond to certain sounds and rise faster if you clap!
Budbudyachi Tali is also considered sacred by the locals and is located in the compound of the village’s old Gopinath temple. Interestingly, the original idol of Lord Krishna that was present in this temple since the 14th century AD has been moved to the Goa State Museum at Patto, Panaji.
Located on the north-eastern side of the Goa-Karnataka-Maharashtra border, Chorla is a beguilingly beautiful region of the Western Ghats carpeted with lush greenery and cascading waterfalls in full flow. Extremely rich in biodiversity of both flora and fauna, this region has also been declared an important bird area by BirdLife International.
Another must-do experience is a trek through the wilderness of Chorla Ghat’s Swapnagandha Valley to see the crystal-like water of the magnificent Vazra Sakla Falls cascade into the valley from a height of 150m. Interestingly, in the monsoon season, a walk through the same forest trails on inky black nights will reveal glowing Mycena (bioluminescent mushrooms) on rotting twigs, logs and stumps.
If you would like to explore the backwaters of Goa, there’s nothing like a boat ride through the Cumbarjua Canal — a 15 km crocodile-inhabited canal that connects the two main rivers of Goa, the Mandovi and the Zuari. It’s lush, peaceful, and far removed from the crowd.
Interestingly, the crocodiles that can be seen are Marsh Muggars, a unique freshwater species that has adapted to the salt water habitat in Goa. Most of these crocs are so used to human presence that if anybody ventures too close, they just jump into the water and move away.
The local children even swim in the canal with crocodiles nearby. In fact, in the village of Durbhatwadi on the canal, the crocs are worshipped as the guardian spirit of the community. There is even a crocodile worship festival (called Maange Thapnee in Konkani) which is celebrated on the day of the new moon in January!
A 12th century Shiva temple tucked away in the forested folds of the Bhagwan Mahavir wildlife sanctuary, Tambdi Surla is an architectural marvel — it has been built without any binding between the stones, that have been cut to a specific shape, and in a unique manner that maintains cool interiors even when temperatures outside are scorching.
Tambdi Surla is also the state’s oldest shrine, believed to be the sole surviving specimen of Kadamba-Yadava architecture in Goa. Not too far away from the iconic temple lies Barabhoomi, an idyllically located nook in the woods that is home to a tiny 400-year-old temple dedicated to Betal and Vetal.
TBI Tip: In addition to the 10 little-known gems above, here are three exciting things you can sign up for to see a different side of Goa:
A Hot Air Balloon ride at Assolda: Let the winds literally sweep you off your feet in South Goa as you embark on this 1-hour hot air balloon ride!
Cashew apple harvesting at Valpoi: March to May is the cashew-apple harvesting season in Goa. This is also the time when people can visit cashew farms (such as Madame Rosa Distillery’s farm in Valpoi) to pick cashew apples, stomp the fruit, watch fresh feni (Goa’s heritage drink) be brewed in copper pots sealed with anthill clay.
Whitewater rafting in Sattari: The months between June to October (the tourist off-season in Goa) are the perfect time to soak in the rain-drenched beauty of the wilderness and ride the waves of the gorgeously moody Mhadei River in Sattari district.
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Some of us have often heard stories about a road trip our friends took from one corner of this vast country to another. There are a hundred and one memorable stories, anecdotes, photos, videos and souvenirs that mark these sojourns.
Some undertake them on motorbikes, cars or even cycles. However, imagine what it’s like travelling over 3000 km from Kolkata to Ladakh on a cycle rickshaw.
This is what Satyen Das, a cycle-rickshaw puller from the Naktala neighbourhood in South Kolkata, did in 2014. Today, a documentary film ‘Ladakh Chale Rickshawala’ detailing his journey from Kolkata to Ladakh is the winner of the Best Exploration/Adventure Film at the 65th National Film Awards in the national capital.
Das, meanwhile, continues to ferry locals in his neighbourhood.
What particularly stands out about his remarkable feat are three things—his insatiable love for adventure, incomparable endurance and courage to complete this perilous journey, and the fact that he shot his own footage on a Handycam.
Satyen Das on his cycle rickshaw. (Source: Facebook)
Although Das had undertaken cycle rickshaw journeys to Puri (Odisha) and other destinations across North India earlier, a journey to Ladakh was always on his mind.
Days before leaving for Ladakh, however, Das had a chance encounter with Indrani Chakraborty, a television producer from the same Naktala neighbourhood, who hailed his cycle rickshaw on her way to work.
In the course of this short journey, Das told her of his impending trip to Ladakh through Jharkhand Bihar, Uttar Pradesh, Haryana, Punjab and Srinagar, and showed pictures of his earlier trips. Sensing a unique opportunity, Indrani decided to shoot his journey and turn it into a documentary film.
“I didn’t have the money to follow Satyen Das on his entire journey to Ladakh, so taught him to shoot on a Handycam. However, it was tough when it stopped working after he crossed Benaras and someone from my team had to rush to where he was and get it repaired. Two of my associates and I met him on the final leg of his trip in Ladakh,” Indrani told the Times of India.
With monetary and logistical assistance from his neighbourhood club the Naktala Agrani Sangha, Indrani, and his regular passengers, Das undertook this improbable journey.
“I drove my wife and daughter to Puri and North India and was inspired to take my rickshaw to Khardung La mountain pass, the world’s highest motorable road, 39 km from Leh. I got help from Indrani-di, a few of my passengers and members of Naktala Agrani Sangha. There were many challenges; every day, someone or the other would ask me to return to Kolkata. ‘You can go till Srinagar, not beyond,’ they told me. But I didn’t budge,” recalled Das, talking to TOI.
En-route to Ladakh during another trip to Ladakh in 2017. (Source: Facebook)
Speaking to The Indian Express in 2014, Das said that he undertook this journey to promote the cycle rickshaw as an eco-friendly means of transport and world peace, although one could guess that adventurers like him do not need that sort of motivation to undertake such sojourns. As many travellers will tell you, it’s really all about the journey.
Apart from the Handycam, Das was armed with maps, food, clothing, and other equipment, and set off on his 68-day journey, which culminated in crossing the famous Khardung-La Pass in Ladakh on August 17, 2014.
Food, the lack of oxygen as a result of high-altitude (Leh is at 11,500 feet above sea level), and unpredictable/inclement weather posed serious challenges for Das.
“I carried basic ingredients like rice and potatoes. I would either have aloo chokha-bhaat or instant noodles; it was more of a fight for survival,” he tells the Times of India.
Despite the tough nature of this journey, Das recalls two particularly difficult segments of the trip. The first came when he reached the Zoji La Pass, the high mountain pass between Srinagar and Leh, which is perched at an altitude of over 11,500 feet above sea level.
“The roads were rough, and there was no way that I could carry my belongings on the rickshaw and cover the 8-km stretch. I would offload everything on the road drive the rickshaw for a few metres and return to carry the things on my shoulder. It took an entire day to cross that stretch, but I didn’t stop. I wanted to create a record of sorts by reaching Khardung La,” he told the publication.
In the cold barren desert of Ladakh. (Source: Facebook)
One cannot stress any further how difficult the above-described task must have been for Das. The lack of oxygen tires your muscles out a lot faster than they would otherwise.
Your breathing takes a hit, and it’s remarkable that a man from the plains with no experience of these climatic and geographic conditions manages to complete his journey without any medical emergencies.
It’s a remarkable show of endurance, any which way you look at it. In Ladakh, Das was joined by a three-member camera crew to help him document this special part of the journey.
“From thereon, there was no looking back. I returned to Ladakh again in 2017, this time with the message of fighting global warming. I also sprinkled 5,000 date seeds along the way,” said Das.
The second difficult segment came during his ascent to Khardung-La from Leh. Perched at an altitude of over 17,500 feet above sea level, this was once considered the highest motorable road in the world. At moments when the road sloped upward, Das was compelled to get off his rickshaw and pull the vehicle up with his hands through the unforgiving mountain terrain.
“It was very tiring, and it took a lot of time. But the view of natural beauty you get there makes you forget everything else in life,” said Das.
You can watch this clip featuring Satyen Das on his 2017 trip to Ladakh below:
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There is good news for those looking to travel by air this summer. Domestic flights will be 4-9% cheaper, so travellers can expect to pay less.
According to travel websites such as Yatra, Cleartrip and Ixigo, even though there has been a 20% increase in demand, fares will be lower than last year.
To elaborate, figures from Yatra.com show that there is a 5% drop in airfares, except in the Delhi-Mumbai sector, which has recorded a 12% rise.
Ixigo, a travel portal, released data which showed that from April to June this year, average domestic fares have dropped by around 9% compared to last year while international fares have reduced by around 19% on an average.
“There is an addition of capacity in airlines, along with competition, which has reduced rates. Plus, oil prices are more or less stable, keeping input costs lower,” said Sharat Dhall, COO, B2C, Yatra.com to The Times of India.
However, flights between Mumbai and Delhi continue to be expensive because the runway has been shut down,” he said.
SpiceJet aircraft at Varanasi airport. Photo Source – Wikimedia Commons
The price of airfare has not increased in the last two years, Dhall stated. Airlines such as SpiceJet, GoAir and AirAsia India are tapping into the demand and offering discounts, offering airfares under ₹1,600 and announcing deals for potential flyers. Nagpur, Chennai, Guwahati, Imphal, Pune and Bhubhaneshwar seem to be the destinations of choice.
“Apart from this being the peak time to book flights for the summer, this dip can be attributed to the intense competition among airlines, ongoing discount sales by airlines, OTAs (online travel aggregators) and travel aggregators,” said Aloke Bajpai, co-founder, Ixigo to TOI.
Travel operator Goomo is offering up to 20% discount for early-bird discounts. Jayatri Dasgupta, Head–B2C business, Goomo also spoke to TOI, and informed the publication that those who would travel in mid-May could look forward to deeper discounts.
“With discounts, airlines are looking to tap into the demand, which is 20% higher this year owing to two long weekends coupled with summer vacations. This attracts families with children as well as millennials who look to travel this season,” reaffirmed Jayatri.
Gowtham Kumar, was in the limelight when he came up with a dog ambulance. His unique innovation was a relief for pet owners, who struggle to find appropriate transport at the time of need. Fitting a pet carrier on his bike, Gowtham began his services, charging only for the petrol used.
Well, this time, Gowtham has proven that dogs truly are man’s best friend. Along with his adopted pet, Chandramouli, he undertook a unique road trip through Karnataka, visiting iconic tourist spots on his bike!
Speaking to The Better India about Chandramouli, he says, “She is a wonderful travel companion.” The animal was just a stray pup when Gowtham saved her from being attacked by other dogs.
A seemingly happy Chandramouli, resting en-route on her road trip. Image Courtesy: Gowtham
The idea of a road trip with Chandramouli came to him, when he decided to combine his love for travelling and his love for dogs. He didn’t want to forgo his adventurous side and didn’t want his best friend missing out on his unique experiences either. So, he attached a dog carrier to his bike and gave it a few rounds of testing. He even fitted a cushion in the carrier to make sure his canine companion was comfortable.
“She loves the feel of the wind on her face, which is fine as long as I don’t over speed. Moreover, she even has special doggie goggles or ‘doggles’, to protect her eyes,” says the ever-careful Gowtham, who even made frequent stops so Chandramouli could catch a break, and have a short walk.
Gowtham took Chandramouli, his beloved pet, on a road trip through Karnataka. Image Courtesy: Gowtham.
Gowtham and Chandramouli did the Hampi-Hassan-Mysore route together, to take in the beautiful temples and scenery these heritage sites have to offer. The route isn’t particularly difficult, but when you have your pet with you, the rules of a road trip change ever so slightly.
What’s more, when you travel with your 4-legged friend, people come up curiously to ask questions and interact with you. In fact, you become more popular if you travel with your pet.
Gowtham and Chandramouli, in Hampi, Karnataka. Image Courtesy: Gowtham
“All highway dhabas, where truck drivers eat, are pet-friendly,” shares Gowtham, adding that his travel experience was enriched due to Chandramouli’s presence. As a rule, if you want a wholesome travel experience, you should interact with locals and other travellers. If you are travelling with a dog, those very same people will want to interact with you, before you even think of doing so!
Chandramouli enjoyed the road trip as much as Gowtham. Image Courtesy: Gowtham.
Gowtham’s trip that lasted for four days. And what an eventful trip it was! Riding constantly with his best friend, Gowtham had a whale of a time.
“This wasn’t my first trip with Chandramouli,” he reveals, indicating that the duo were veterans. Chandramouli seemingly loves travelling. According to Gowtham, she stays awake in her crate and doesn’t sleep during the journey.
Overlooking a beautiful rock formation, somewhere in Karnataka. Image Courtesy: Gowtham
“Whenever we stopped for a meal, I would use a packet of dog-food and mix it with rice,” says Gowtham, adding that rice is found in abundance and there isn’t any need to carry your own. The dog-food was a gravy mixture, which mixed with the rice, formed a nutritious meal, one that Chandramouli required, as the journey was long.
Everywhere he went, people were curious and would come up to him and ask questions. At Hassan, one person even wanted to buy Chandramouli, and offered a price! Naturally, Gowtham refused point blank–how can you part ways with your best friend?
Well, when we spoke to Gowtham, we also asked him what a person should do if he is road-tripping with his pet dog for the first time. Here’s what he suggests:
1. Keep in mind, that fitting a dog carrier on the bike, reduces its aerodynamic abilities.
Chandramouli has her own pair of riding goggles, and a pet carrier to travel in comfort. Image Courtesy: Gowtham.
You cannot take liberties as you would on a motorcycle without a pet carrier. Don’t go beyond a particular speed, don’t try to corner and put your knee down, your pet’s life is in your hands! Ride slowly, preferably below 80 kmph at all times. And take account of the wind. Note the presence of windmills, for there will be crosswinds where they are.
2. Carry pouches of dog food, preferably a gravy-type mix that you can feed with rice.This is a highly-nutritious meal, a huge boon for your pet who is accompanying you on the road.
3. Take appropriate breaks.
A tired Chandramouli, catching a quick nap before hitting the road again. Image Courtesy: Gowtham.
During his trip, Gowtham would take breaks after 90 minutes or 60 minutes of riding, depending on the circumstances. Do not ride continuously–a pet will not sleep during the bike ride, and will probably be as exhausted, if not more than you. Taking breaks will also allow you to walk your dog.
4. There are no particular medical precautions to be taken. Chandramouli’s vaccinations were up to date, and that is pretty much what one must check.
5. Check the restrictions that tourist places have.
At the iconic Shettihalli Rosary Church, in Hassan, Karnataka. Image Courtesy: Gowtham.
For example, places of worship usually do not allow pets inside. Find out from the local people where you can or cannot visit with your dog. If your trip is more than a day, and you have to book a place to stay for the night, make sure to find out if it is pet-friendly.
6. Most importantly, look out for signs of discomfort that your pet might exhibit during the road trip. You should know your dog well enough to read the signs of discomfort, if and when they surface.
For Gowtham, travelling is a way of life, and Chandramouli, his faithful travel companion, seems to agree. The pictures speak of the sacred bond between man and his best friend. Gowtham rounds off with a pleasant memory.
The duo spend time amidst the scenic temples in Hampi. Image Courtesy: Gowtham.
“Seeing as I was riding at a slow speed, other bikers naturally overtook me on the highway. When they saw that I had a dog, they would flash a thumbs-up sign and wave enthusiastically while passing by me on the highway,” he says.
Gowtham’s trusty motorcycle, and his best friend, catch the sunset, somewhere in Karnataka. Image Courtesy: Gowtham
Incidentally, people refused to believe that Chandramouli is an indie, and insisted she was a pedigree breed, while others suggested she might be a hunting dog. Nothing could be further from the truth, chuckles Gowtham, as he highlights the gentle and kind nature of his best friend and travel buddy.
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Popularly known as the ‘Land of the Dawn-Lit Mountains’, or the ‘Orchid State of India’, a visit to Arunachal Pradesh is sure to leave you spellbound! The state happens to be the largest of the Seven Sister States.
Recently, history was created, when the first commercial flight landed at Pasighat Airport. The airstrip at the Pasighat Airport was laid down around 66 years ago, which for the first time, received a commercial flight. It was an Air Alliance ATR, carrying a motley group of passengers, including the state Chief Minister Pema Khandu.
The first commercial flight at Pasighat airport-a historic moment for Arunachal Pradesh. Image Credit: Suresh Prabhu (Twitter)
The Alliance Air flight will operate thrice-a-week, on the Kolkata-Guwahati-Pasighat circuit. Well with commercial flights becoming operational, it is time you visited this beautiful region for a memorable getaway.
A Union Territory till 1972, Arunachal Pradesh became a state only on 20th February 1987. At its highest peak, the topography rises to 7,000 metres. Little wonder then, that the state is home to some of the highest peaks in this region of the Himalayas, like the main Gorichen peak, and the Eastern Gorichen Peak.
There is a network of river valleys that dissect the landscape, and an abundance of lush, green forest cover. A true natural paradise, Arunachal Pradesh has interesting places to see.
An abundance of greenery and serenity will greet you at Arunachal Pradesh. Image Credit: Wikimedia Commons.
Being such a picturesque location, it seems to be the ideal place for a music festival. The Ziro Festival is held each year in the Ziro valley in the state. So book your flight tickets, and head to Arunachal Pradesh to experience these five spots.
Pasighat:-
Pasighat is beautiful, being the meeting point of 2 rivers. Image Credit: Anjani Kumar Shahi
The spot where your flight will land, Pasighat, is the oldest town in the state. Located on the banks of the Siang river, Pasighat is 155 metres above sea level and is the capital of the East Siang District.
Pasighat is a paradise for nature lovers.
Pasighat, Arunachal Pradesh, is full of natural beauty. Image Credit: Thocks Bikram
The massive Brahmaputra flows to this place from Tibet, and the Daying Ering Wildlife Sanctuary is located here, spread over an area of 190 square kilometres. Travel around 60 km from Pasighat, and you will reach Pangin, the point where the river Siyom meets the river Siang. The meeting point of the two rivers is stunning, due to the colour differences between the two river bodies, and the presence of rare plants and herbs.
Pasighat also houses a Buddhist temple, located near the airstrip, which is of historical importance, as excavators have found pieces of evidence of past cultures from early medieval periods.
Tawang:-
One of the many beautiful lakes in Tawang, Arunachal Pradesh. Image Credit: Anubhav Banerjee
This gorgeous district is home to placid lakes and a 400-year old monastery-one of the oldest and largest in India. During winter, Tawang frequently experiences heavy snowfall, and the Sela Pass that rises steeply is often covered with snow year-round.
Do spend time at the Jang waterfall, and visit the handicrafts centre that promotes small-scale local industries.
The journey to Tawang might be arduous, due to the loose tarmac and gravel, but once you get there, the journey will be worth it.
The magnificent monastery in Tawang, Arunachal Pradesh. Image Credit: Anubhav Banerjee
Visiting Tawang district requires a special Inner Line Permit. Get yours from the government, available in Kolkata, Guwahati, Tezpur and New Delhi. The road to Tawang is long and dotted with many local food options. Dig into momos and cream buns while the cold air nips your cheeks.
Roing:
Located in the Lower Dibang Valley in Arunachal Pradesh, Roing is the favourite of nature lovers and wildlife enthusiasts. Image Credit: Sabbir Ikbal
This charming district headquarters was founded recently, in 1948. The term ‘Roing’ means ‘cool and refreshing’, and this spectacular location is located in the Lower Dibang Valley.
Lose yourself in the perfect natural beauty, and sink into peace and solitude, thanks to the multitude of serene lakes and breathtaking waterfalls.
Roing is a favourite amongst archaeologists, thrill seekers, adventure junkies and nature lovers.
Near Roing is the Mehao Wildlife Sanctuary.
Among the animals in Arunachal Pradesh, the Clouded Leopard is the most elusive. Representative image only. Image Courtesy: Tambako the Jaguar (Flickr)
It is a 282 square kilometre expanse of lush greenery, home to a variety of wild animals, including the Bengal tiger, the leopard and the extremely elusive clouded leopard. An interesting fact about the sanctuary is that it is home to Hoolock gibbons, the sole ape species in India, aside from us humans!
Dirang:-
The beautiful Dirang village, in the West Kameng district of Arunachal Pradesh. Image Courtesy: Great Indian Mountains.
This beautiful little village is an undiscovered gem, a small town in the West Kameng district of Arunachal Pradesh. Hidden away in the state, Dirang is a fascinating place, with the combined influence of Buddhism and Bhutanese culture.
Dirang is usually a stopover for tourists heading to Tawang, yet by itself, it is a fabulous natural beauty.
Get lost in nature, while you spend time in Dirang, Arunachal Pradesh. Image Credit: Anubhav Banerjee.
Just a little outside town, you will find a hot water spring–considered to be a holy place. Rich in sulphur, the spring is known for its medicinal properties. Take a dip and rejuvenate yourself!
For those who wish to explore the region’s wildlife, the National Research Centre on Yaks is located above the main town. The centre, which has a yak farm, also conducts research, to improve the health of the yak population. Go for a long walk along the banks of the river Kameng, where this beautiful little village is located.
This is the place to be if you want an adrenaline rush. Located near the Assam border, the Aalo valley is picturesque and looks serene, but don’t let the quiet fool you! The area is a hotbed of adventure sports. River rafting and trekking opportunities are in abundance here, so test your limits but be careful while doing so!
Along is also home to the Kane Wildlife Sanctuary–an amazing spot if you want a glimpse of wild elephants and deer.
Aalo hosts many festivals, like the Mopin festival and the Yomgo River Festival.
The Mopin festival, is celebrated with great spirit, in Arunachal Pradesh. Image Credit: IGRMS Bhopal.
These are celebrated to promote tourism, while making the world aware of the indigenous culture and unique tradition, of the region, via handlooms and handicrafts.
Trek and hike in the high mountains, at various difficulty levels, and steer your raft, while negotiating with the furious white waters of the Siyom river. Venture beyond the known, into unexplored trails, and spend a night camping in the forest!
Arunachal Pradesh is indeed a hidden gem. Well, now that the state airport will be receiving commercial flights, hop onto one, and explore the storied beauty of this region yourself!
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When was the last time you had some Vitamin Sea? Our country’s beautiful coastline—all 7,517 km of it—is composed of different beautiful beaches, and attracts a steady stream of visitors all through the year.
Now, the beach experience in India is all set to get better for some regions.
As reported in the Hindustan Times, 13 Indian beaches will be conferred with the Blue Flag certification—awarded to beaches that are environment-friendly, clean, and well-equipped with international-standard amenities for tourists. The beaches of Odisha, Maharashtra, and a few other coastal states, will be the first, in India and in Asia, to get the Blue Flag certification.
The Society for Integrated Coastal Management (SICOM), an initiative by the Ministry of Environment, Forest and Climate Change, is spearheading the development of India’s beaches. Arvind Nautiyal, SICOM’s Project head, told the publication that beaches need to be plastic-free and equipped with a waste management system, to be environment and tourist-friendly.
So, how will this certification affect you, when you visit a Blue Flag beach next?
A ‘Blue Flag’ tagged beach, will have certain amenities, and 13 beaches in India, have been selected for the certification. Image Credit
1. As a tourist at a Blue Flag beach, you can expect important information relating to coastal zone ecosystems, and sensitive natural areas in the coastal zone displayed at the beach. Information about the bathing water quality, as well as the Blue Flag programme, will be displayed as well.
2. There will be a strict code of conduct, for the beach area. The laws governing beach use will be easily available to you on request. Additionally, five environmental education activities will be on offer, and you can take them up as per your interest.
3. The beaches will be clean and well-maintained. Waste disposal bins will be available in adequate numbers and will be regularly emptied and cleaned. There will also be adequate recycling facilities, on or near the beach. Expect good sanitary facilities, with controlled sewage disposal.
4. Unauthorised camping, driving or dumping will not be allowed. There will be a sustainable means of transportation, promoted around the beach area. As for those of you who take your pets to the beach, there will be strict rules regarding dogs and other domestic animals.
5. For your safety, there will be an adequate number of lifeguards and life-saving equipment at the beach. There will also be first aid, and a steady supply of drinking water will be made available.
6. There will be a safe access area to the beach, and the beach area will be constantly patrolled, to ensure safety and enforce the rules.
7. At least one Blue Flag beach in each municipality will have access and toilet facilities for the disabled.
8. All Blue Flag beaches will have a map, that will show the different facilities available, and there will be adequate facilities in place, to prevent conflicts and accidents.
The Blue Flag beach standards were established by the Foundation for Environmental Education (FEE), in 1985. According to the Blue Flag standards, a beach must strictly comply with 33 environment and tourist-related conditions. The initiative began in Paris, and quickly spread through Europe, and even to South Africa. Asia remained untouched, until now.
13 beaches across India, have been chosen for this Blue Flag certification, and the Chandrabhaga beach, on Odisha’s coast, was incidentally the first to complete the tag certification process. Tomorrow, on World Environment Day, it will be awarded the honour.
In Maharashtra, the Chiwla and Bhogave beaches are being included in this initiative, as is one beach each from Pondicherry, Goa, Daman and Diu, Lakshadweep, and the Andaman and Nicobar Islands.
The Blue Flag certification is an attempt to promote sustainable tourism. Hopefully, as visitors to the beaches under the Blue Flag tag, we will be responsible and treat the surroundings with care, so future generations can also learn a lesson or two, in sustainability.
(Edited by Gayatri Mishra)
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Are you pressed for time, but dreaming of getting away for a weekend, and leave the boring urban bustle behind? Well, the UDAN scheme will definitely help you.
Around 12 tourist spots including Ajanta-Ellora, Hampi and Kaziranga could soon be connected by air, reports the Financial Express. The Tourism Ministry will provide the Viability Gap funds, which are required to operate flights to these places.
Treating the proposal for it as a vertical initiative of the Regional Connectivity Scheme (RCS), which is popularly known as UDAN (Ude Desh Ka Aam Nagrik), the Ministry of Civil Aviation has set up a joint committee comprising of its own officials along with ones from the Ministry of Tourism, to work out its finer points and earmark airports.
The scheme seeks to connect unserved and under-served airports in India and make flying even more affordable.
UDAN was launched in June 2016, and under it, the government has collected a levy of Rs 214 crore, from scheduled airline operators, to fund the scheme and has disbursed Rs 60 crore, as the Viability Gap Fund to the airline operators till May 2018, to operate in Tier II and Tier III airports.
KJ Alphons, the Tourism Minister (Independent Charge), had a meeting with Suresh Prabhu, the Civil Aviation Minister, and Jayanta Sinha, the Minister of State, to discuss the Tourism Ministry’s proposal.
According to a senior official from the Ministry of Aviation, 12 sites across the country have been identified by the Tourism Ministry for development, under the ‘Iconic Tourist Sites Project,’ and are under consideration for being provided air connectivity.
The Tourism Ministry will provide the earlier-mentioned Viability Gap Funds, so existing flyers don’t undergo any financial burdens.
As for the progress of the UDAN scheme,16 of the 31 unserved airports awarded under UDAN 1 are operational, and the remaining 15, will be operational by the end of July. The Bureau of Civil Aviation Standards had individually reached out to the states to train people as well.
The earlier-mentioned tourist sites are just three of the proposed dozen to receive air connectivity. Additionally, the Assam Government has also offered to extend Rs 100 crore, to start international flight services from Guwahati.
Well, with the scheme underway, and new locations being identified for air travel, flying to and from popular tourist destinations like Hampi, is all set to become a reality!
(Edited by Gayatri Mishra)
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With plastic bottles, empty chips packets, alcohol bottles, Tetra Pak cartons, disposable cups and plates strewn all over their premises, tourist attractions and heritage sites across the country are often in an abysmal state, and this is something that all of us are familiar with.
The sad fact is that while there are designated bins for waste disposal and specific instructions and signs for the same in these places, even educated tourists exhibit an incredibly irresponsible attitude, which is not just detrimental to the environment but also demotivates state authorities who take great care to maintain so that we have a good experience.
While vacations and trips should definitely be filled with fun and good memories, it is also imperative that people travel responsibly and leave behind only footsteps and not garbage.
Shilpi Sahu, Rinaz Mohammed, and their 10-year-old son, Neil, have set an excellent example for the rest of the country, in this regard.
The environmentally conscious family. Source: Facebook.
The couple, who are both Bengaluru-based engineers, recently undertook an 11-day tour to the Northeast, with the resolve to neither using disposable plastics or purchase any along the way.
Living in budget hotels and carrying what they christened a ‘Swachh Bharat’ toolkit comprising a steel cutlery set, the trio travelled to places like Shillong, Cherrapunjee and Tawang. What was interesting about their entire trip was that they insisted on beverages being served in their steel cups even while flying and requested for water refills at hotels and restaurants, instead of water bottles.
“My Swachh Bharat survival kit during vacations/trips: Steel cutlery, fresh fruits and nuts packed from home and replenished at local street vendors. Insist on tea and coffee to be served in the steel cup even in flight. And water refills asked at hotels and restaurants instead of the bottled water. We feel that there is no point in visiting new places without tasting local food and water—we have never fallen sick to stomach viruses despite staying away from bottled water. Also, no point leaving a beautiful place trashed by drinking from single-use plastic bottles,” said Shilpi in a Facebook post.
The efforts of this environmentally conscious family are indeed commendable and quite motivational for us to consider travelling in a similar manner.
Swachh Bharat kit prepared by Shipi. Source: Facebook.Neil drinking lemon tea from local vendor at Laitlum in his own steel cup. Source: Facebook.
Just the way Shilpi, Rinaz and Neil carried their own cutlery and refused to contribute to the mounds of plastic waste in their way, you can also partake in responsible and zero-waste travelling. This is not too hard to practice and only requires one to be willing to make certain lifestyle changes for the sake of the environment.
Here are five simple steps you can take to make your vacations and road trips waste-free and eco-friendly:
Eateries in tourist locations often end up serving food in disposable plasticware that only end up in landfills and oceans. Also, the aftermath of many family picnics results in disposable plates and cups being thrown randomly along the road or just left behind. What could be a better practice would be carrying your own cutlery like Shilpi did, and you can choose from steel or even biodegradable options! It is a small change on your part but a significant step for the environment.
2. Non-plastic water bottles and coffee mugs
Stainless steel bottles and tumblers. Source: Flickr / Facebook.
Plastic water bottles create tons of plastic bottle waste every year, and sadly, these are found everywhere—from tourist locations to the street outside your home. As advised by elders and environment crusaders, it doesn’t take much to carry your own water bottle which can be refilled at not just tourist sites but even hotels and restaurants. The paper cups used to serve coffee and tea in roadside stalls and restaurants are not exactly biodegradable either—more often than not these are coated with a layer of plastic or even wax. So, you can also go the extra mile and carry your own coffee mugs for hot beverages.
Plastic wrappers are the biggest menace and are found anywhere and everywhere. Despite almost every tourist site having multiple garbage bins, most of us are reluctant to use them and dump the plastic wrappers wherever we please, and this is quite worrisome. Not only does throwing waste in bins reduce the workload of the cleaning staff but you are also helping keep the place clean. In case you don’t find any wastebaskets, save these wrappers in a bag and dispose of them when you see a bin while you are travelling. This is a practice that most of us Indians seriously need to inculcate.
Imagine going through a beautiful forest reserve and coming across soiled diapers dumped by families travelling with babies or toddlers, or sanitary napkins, for that matter. Disposing of these items often gets quite tedious while travelling but throwing them out in the open without even wrapping them properly is downright irresponsible and an insult to municipal cleaners.
We are deeply mistaken if we think that we do not have to worry about the waste we leave behind, and this idea has to change. Just like a bag for plastic waste, you can keep aside a bag for used sanitary napkins or diapers and dispose of them when you see a bin or incarcerator.
5. Toiletries and towels
A travel toiletry bag (for representative purpose). Source: Walmart.
While travelling, most of our concerns revolve around fitting in many, many things in the limited baggage space that we have. Due to this, we prefer carrying shampoo sachets, small soaps and even face wipes, as they are compact and can be easily disposed of.
However, plastic sachets are amongst the topmost items which get left behind as trash and often end up clogging drains and sewers. Instead, we could switch to carrying a mini toiletry bag containing all our favourite essentials, and make small changes wherever possible. For example, face wipes can be replaced by small hand towels. While one can argue that paper is biodegradable and less detrimental to the environment, it still doesn’t solve the waste crisis and the public indifference towards littering.
These may be a few steps of change for one person, but if more people consciously incorporate the zero-waste standpoint in their lives, especially while travelling, it can play a defining role in saving the environment, while also helping tourist locations remain pristine and immaculate.
It is quite soothing to watch an artist draw a thangka painting. And if the picture on the canvas is a mandala art, then your day is made.
At the Norbulingka Institute in Dharamshala, artists paint in meditative silence using natural colours. It is one of the activities here apart from wood carving, wood painting, tailoring, and weaving.
The main entrance of the Norbulingka Institute. Photo
I take permission from one of the artists at work, Tenzing, before I sit on a mat beside him to know more about the art form.
“Sometimes it takes one month or even two months to finish a thangka painting. Colours are manufactured using locally available natural pigments,” says Tenzing. He has studied thangka painting, like others in the hall, who are at work on their stretched canvases.
A riot of colours come alive in paintings on wooden treasure boxes that are handcrafted by artisans at the institute.
An artist drawing a mandala painting.
Norbulingka Institute was established in 1988 with a mission to preserve Tibetan art and culture and to provide livelihood options–employment and training to Tibetans in exile. The products are sold at the handicrafts store in Norbulingka. Pouches, bags, home furnishing collection, painted thangkas and more can be purchased here.
The campus houses various sections spread over a finely-laid garden that blends the earth and the water poetically. There is the use of river stones and slates for pavements and bridges. Bamboo groves add that zen element, transporting you to the Far East.
The path that leads to the Buddha Temple, Losel Doll Museum and craft workshops has ponds on either side that are fed by streams. Upstream, the gurgling waters turn a prayer wheel before plunging down to the ponds. Prayer flags flutter, carrying the prayers with the flowing wind.
Each portion of the institute is designed to perfection, blending the garden with the buildings.
Left–Prayer wheel turned by a stream. Right–Monks spinning the prayer wheels.
The Buddha Temple on the campus is one of the most serene temples in Dharamshala. A black stone floor, natural light seeping in through the glass windows and the aroma of Potala incense made with herbs, makes one ponder about life, amid chants and sounds from the gongs and cymbals. Thangka paintings on the frescoes in vibrant colours remind one of Vajrayana mandalas found in the monasteries of Leh.
If you haven’t been to Lhasa and want an insight into life in Tibet, drop by at the Losel Doll Museum at Norbulingka. Exhibits include navigation in Tibet, a family rowing a boat with their sheep; Lhamo-opera, presenting an ancient Indian Buddhist tale; market scenes in Lhasa with shopkeepers selling turquoise, pears, and carpets; and Cham dance.
Exhibits depict Amdo, the land of snows, as it is known for its grasslands and horses; the attire of the Kongpo people that is different from the ensemble worn in rest of Tibet; and the lives of the nomads of the northern plains. Miniature tents depict yak hair, the dwellings of nomads who lived off the produce from yak, dzo (a cross between the cow and the yak), and sheep and bartered milk, butter, meat and wool for ‘tsampa’ –roasted flour, and other commodities.
An exhibit ‘picnic and leisure’ is a scene from Lhasa in the 1940s. One can find people playing traditional board games and drinking ‘chang’ or tea. Dolls dressed in silk and woolen robes, holding prayer wheels and rosaries, including paintings of snow-clad mountains behind the exhibits, brings life to the display.
Also popular among visitors are thangka paintings, Tibetan wood carvings and wood painting classes. Norbulingka Institute offers day-long workshops and long-term classes in these art forms.
At the Norbulingka Institute.
Intricate as they are, the thangka paintings are drawn with precise measurements. Thangka is religious art. It takes a six-week course to complete a thangka painting. Classes are customised for individuals and groups.
Wood painting is one of the popular workshops. Wood carving students start by mastering designs of ‘Tashi Tagye’ or ‘eight auspicious signs’ that are found in Buddhist art. These include the ‘endless knot’, depicting the infinite wisdom of Buddha; the lotus and a pair of golden fish.
Relief painting was revived at the institute, and the technique gives a three-dimensional effect to the drawing. Students staying for a longer duration can master the technique here. Traditional Tibetan applique course is also offered.
Norling House on the campus also offers accommodation. Each room is designed after motifs like dragons, snow leopards, ibexes and so on. Apart from a restaurant, there is a cafeteria that offers apple tarts, carrot cakes and doughnuts. Dressed in ‘chuba’ or traditional coats, the staff is helpful, and recommends that you take the time to explore the institute and consider joining a short workshop.
(Written by Syeda Farida and Edited by Shruti Singhal)
Beyond the serene backwaters, swaying coconut palms and mouth-watering spread of seafood and rice-flour savouries, there is a lot more to God’s Own Country than most tourist itineraries, and travel packages would have you believe.
For instance, did you know that besides the magnificent Bekal fort in Kasaragod or the fortified city of Thiruvananthapuram, the coastal state has quite a few forts belonging to the 16th century, that once safeguarded kingdoms and empires, but are in complete ruins today?
Besides opening a window into the grandeur of bygone eras, fortresses also allow people to experience time travel (in a metaphorical sense, of course!), and this fascinating quality has captivated not only historians and excavators but also countless travellers from across the world.
Despite fading away from the public realm, the forts and citadels of Kerala have stood tall through the sands of time and continue to intrigue people with their former days of glory and magnificence.
Here are 12 of the lesser-known forts of Kerala that you must definitely visit for the perfect trip back in time:
Overlooking the fishing harbour of the Mappila Bay while being surrounded by sea on three sides, the St Angelo Fort was built by Dom Francisco de Almeida, the first Portuguese Viceroy of India, with the permission of local ruler Ali Rajas in 1505.
The fort passed through the hands of multiple colonial rulers before finally being established as a garrison by the British empire in the late 18th century.
Also known as the Kannur Fort, this gargantuan structure, which offers beautiful panoramic views of the Arabian Seas, is made of laterite stones and is a protected monument under the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI).
Located in the heart of Palakkad, this structure is amongst the best-preserved forts in Southern India and was built under Hyder Ali Khan, the ruler of Mysore Kingdom, in 1766. Also known as Tipu’s Fort, it is believed that a particular form of fortification already existed in the area before Ali constructed the present-day granite fortress.
Interestingly, the control over fort had alternated between Ali’s family and the British before finally falling under the latter’s authority. It is also said that the fort was once captured by the troops of Zamorin for a brief while. Today, the fort houses government offices, a sub-jail, and a small shrine.
Locally known as Ayikotta or Alikotta, the Pallipuram Fort in Ernakulam is the oldest existing European fort in India today and was built by the Portuguese in 1503.
Constructed using laterite, lime, and wood, the fort has a hexagonal structure and is located in the northernmost point of Vypin island. Sadly, the fort is in ruins today, and the area is surrounded by thick vegetation.
Offering a blissful experience of watching the Payaswini river merge into the Arabian Sea, the Chandragiri Fort is a monument site in Kasaragod you mustn’t miss.
The 17th-century structure was constructed by Shivappa Nayaka of Keladi, atop a hill at 150 feet above sea level, following the collapse of the Vijayanagara Empire.
Nayaka is the same man who built the magnificent Bekal Fort. The Chandragiri Fort is a protected site identified by the State Archaeology Department.
An imposing structure with a round bastion, the Hosdurg fort in Kasaragod was built by Somashekara Nayaka from the Keladi Nayaka dynasty of Ikkeri. Only ruins of the fort remain today and situated nearby is an ashram of Swami Nityananda, which comprises a collection of 45 caves.
The lure of pepper and cardamom brought the British East India Company to the coastal town of Thalassery, who called it Tellicherry and established a prominent European trading centre in the town with the intention of ascertaining a stronghold on the Malabar coast.
This called for the fortification of their property, and the fort carrying the moniker of the town came into being in 1708. Built with massive laterite blocks, the square fort still holds an imposing demeanour with its high walls, strong flanking bastions, secret tunnels to the sea, and intricately carved doors. Looking out towards the surf breaking on the reefs is an old lighthouse that still stands on the ramparts.
Situated in the beach town of Thankasseri near Kollam, only a tiny portion of St Thomas Fort survives today. The coastal town is believed to have had thriving trade relations with China, as early as the first millennium CE and the same town later found prominence as a trade port under the colonial rule of the Portuguese, the Dutch, and the British in erstwhile Kerala.
It is believed that Fort Kochi takes its name from the ruined fort that was built by the Portuguese after being granted permission by the royal family of Kochi in 1503.
The colonisers had also erected the St Francis church within the area enclosed by the fort. Also known as Fort Immanuel, the structure was later captured by the Dutch in 1663 and was subsequently taken over by the British by late 18th century after defeating the former. Only little remains of the fort rest on the shores of Fort Kochi today.
In 1523, the Portuguese built a stone fort in the town of Kodungallur in Thrissur and christened it ‘Fortaleza da São Tome’. The fort was later known by many names including Cranganore Fort, Kodungallur Fort and finally, the Kottappuram Fort. Over a century later, the fort came under the custody of the Dutch only to be seized by Tipu Sultan, who was renowned for his destructive exploits and demolished the fort shortly after. Some of its remnants still stand in the rustic town.
Situated in the village of Anchuthengu near Varkala, which means five coconut trees, the fort, which is also known as Anjengo Fort, was built by the British East India Company with the permission of the Queen of Attingal in 1696.
Initially used as a signalling station for the ships, Anchuthengu Fort became the first permanent post of the British on the Malabar coast and encloses a large expanse of land. With a lighthouse nearby, you can climb up to get a bird’s eye view of not only the fort but also the sea.
11. Nedumkotta
The relics of the entrance of Travancore lines. Source: Wikimedia.
Currently known as Travancore lines, the Nedumkotta in Thrissur was once a majestic fortification erected by the Dharma Raja Karthika Thirunal, King of Travancore.
The fort was constructed as a security measure against constant attacks and threats from the Zamorins of Kozhikode and also from the destructive invasions by Hyder Ali Khan and Tipu Sultan.
Constructed using clay and mud, with reinforcements using stones, laterite and granite at strategic places, this historic defense line stretched almost 48 km long from the Krishan Kotta on the west coast to Annamalai Hills of the Western Ghats and was even compared to the Great Wall of China. Today, like many other forts in Kerala, only the ruins of Nedumkotta remain, and serve as a testimony of many historic battles and wars.
Constructed by the Dutch East India Company in Thrissur with the permission from the Kochi royals in 1714, the William Fort, also known as Chettuve Kotta, was later occupied by Zamorin of Kozhikode and eventually, Tipu Sultan, who renamed the fortress after himself.
Following which, the control of the fort shuttled between the British Empire, Dutch East India Company, the kingdom of Mysore, Zamorin, as well as kingdom of Kochi before being once again captured by Tipu Sultan, who partially demolished the structure partially. The dilapidated fort is now being conserved by the State Archeological Department.
If you’ve never heard of Uttar Pradesh’s Pilibhit Tiger Reserve, it’s probably because for most travellers, it’s eclipsed by the Jim Corbett National Park – its more famous, broad-shouldered neighbour in Uttarakhand.
Untamed, beautiful and teeming with wildlife, Pilibhit (along with Dudhwa) is the wild heart of Uttar Pradesh. Yet it remains little-known, both within and outside the country.
However, even fewer people know that Pilibhit is home to a secret ‘beach’ brimming with character. Nestled amidst lush wilderness, the Chuka beach is perched on the banks of the Sharda Sagar Dam and offers splendid isolation to any traveller looking to go off the beaten path.
Interestingly, this offbeat destination was almost single-handedly developed by a dedicated forest officer, without any help from the state government.
Way back in December 2002, IFS officer Ramesh Pandey (the then divisional forest in-charge) took it upon himself to develop the spot to promote the kind of eco-tourism that would help in tiger conservation. However, he was refused any financial aid from the state government.
Undeterred, Pandey requested his peers to donate a part of their salary to help in developing the spot. He also spent time spreading ecological awareness among villagers who lived nearby, helping them become actively involve themselves in the project as protectors of the forest.
To ensure that the benefits of this project also benefited the nature, Pandey set up joint forestry management committees in collaboration with local Gram Sabhas.
He then announced that the incomes anticipated from eco-tourism at Chuka would be transferred directly to the bank accounts of these committees with provisions to spend the money for the welfare of the forest as well as the villagers.
In the two years he was posted there, Pandey managed to build four eco-huts at Chuka with the help of colleagues. While he was transferred from there in 2004, the forest department continued to build on the IFS officer’s vision, formally throwing open the spot for tourists in 2014.
Today, Chuka Beach is a serene picnic spot that is protected by the state government of Uttar Pradesh.
Reachable by a two km ride through the dense forest, the emerald hued lake is a great place to indulge in some serious bird photography, exploration of forest trails or simply a lazy weekend getaway amidst nature.
As for accommodation, the forest department has several options for tourists (including a treehouse) to choose from, the bookings for which can be done online.
The state government also runs a tiny canteen that serves tea and snacks for visitors. However, do note that interested travellers will need to pre-book a visit to the Chuka Eco Tourism Centre, situated at Mustafabad in Pilibhit.
Interestingly, Pilibhit Tiger Reserve was recently in the news for another positive reason — in association with World Wide Fund, the reserve authorities have started collecting ingredients used for puja in local temples (such as flowers and ashes from incense sticks), mixing them with cow dung/urine and converting them into compost.
This organic fertilizer is then utilized by the social forestry division in its 14 departmental nurseries in the district!
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Taking a road trip has its charm. Well, granted that travelling by road isn’t as fast and efficient as the airlines. However, unlike that of air travel, the objective of a road trip is to enjoy the journey as well as the destination.
India has plenty of quiet nooks and unexplored places with untouched beauty, which you can visit with family and friends to create memories that last a lifetime. All this, away from the maddening tourist crowd. Here are ten places you must visit.
1. Mumbai to Lonar Lake, Maharashtra:-
The picturesque Lonar Lake, in Maharashtra, will make for a great road trip in India. Image Credit: Indi Jaiswal
A notified National Geo-heritage monument, this saline soda lake is located in Lonar, in the Buldhana district of Maharashtra. Created by a meteor impact during the Pleistocene Epoch, this lake lies in a basalt impact structure and is both saline and alkaline in nature. The district itself was once part of Ashoka’s empire.
Visit this beautiful lake to witness species like blue jays, parakeet hoopoes, herons, chinkara, gazelles and monitor lizards. The roads leading to the lake, especially NH222, and the State Highway, are smooth and offer beautiful views while you drive/ride to your destination. From Mumbai, Lonar is 480.5 kilometers, a comfortable distance through some great roads.
2. Guwahati, Assam, to Ziro, Arunachal Pradesh:-
The ethereal Ziro Valley, in North East India is truly a natural paradise. Image Credit: Life in the NorthEast India
Ziro is a peace-seeker’s paradise, a quaint old town in Arunachal Pradesh, home to the Apatani tribe, and well-known for its bamboo and pine-tree-covered hills surrounded by picturesque rice fields. Perched at 1,500 m above sea level, this place is ideal during summer.
If you are feeling adventurous, visit during September for the Ziro Music Festival. Reaching Ziro is relatively easy. From Guwahati, take the NH 27 and NH 15, both brilliant roads, if you are travelling from Guwahati. While it is true, that the roads in the region aren’t great, especially during monsoons, but then, you get the experience of driving or riding through clouds to reach Ziro. Nothing good comes easy!
3. Bengaluru to Bandipur, Karnataka:-
Drive through India’s Bandipur Tiger Reserve, on butter-smooth roads.Image Credit: Raji Pandiyaraj
This beautiful national park, in Karnataka, is one of the premier tiger reserves in the country. The park spans 847 square kilometers and is home to several species of India’s endangered wildlife. Located just 80 m from Mysore, Bandipur is flanked by the Kabini river in the north, and the Moyar river in the south, with the Nugu river running through the park. If you are departing from Bengaluru, head to Channapatna, on to Mandya then Mysore, and finally to Bandipur.
Since driving through the reserve is disallowed during the night, make sure you plan accordingly. The best time to drive/ride through the reserve would be early morning, from 6 am to 8 am, when animals and birds are active.
4. Guwahati to Kaziranga, Assam:-
Kaziranga, in Assam, India, is known for the one-horned rhinoceros. Image Credit:- Subrat Kumar Tripathy
This is a short 4.5 hours road trip, covering 225 kilometers. Driving from Guwahati will take you through Sonapur, Khetri, Jagiroad, Nelli, Dharamtul, the Nagaon bypass, Puranigodam, Samaguri, Kaliabor-Tiniali Junction, Bagori, and Kohora. You will be driving on a 4-lane highway throughout, and if you get hungry, you will find plenty of local food joints serving up delicacies like Khar, Laksa, and Tenga. The national park itself hosts 2/3rds of the world’s great one-horned rhinoceroses and is home to the highest density of tigers among protected areas in the world. The park is also home to elephants, wild water buffaloes, and swamp deer.
Auli happens to be one of the less-explored hill stations in India, standing at a height of 2,500 meters above sea level. The distance you will travel is 487 kilometers. From Delhi, go to Rishikesh. On the way to Rishikesh, you will cross Noida, Ghaziabad, Modinagar, Muzaffarnagar, Roorkee, and Haridwar. From Rishikesh travel to Joshimath.
Now, you must remember not to travel in winter, as Auli sees heavy snowfall during winter, closing all vehicular access. Then, you will have to travel by cable car from Joshimath to Auli. The region is a true paradise, covered in lush green vegetation and the road trip is the best way to experience the natural beauty of this place.
6. New Delhi to Kutch, Gujarat:-
The great Rann of Kutch, India, stretches for miles. Image Credit: Souvik Ghosh
This scenic road trip from New Delhi will take you through Neemrana, Ajmer, Pali, Mount Abu, and Bhuj before you arrive at the Great Rann of Kutch. There is an alternate route from Delhi to Jodhpur, on to Pachpadra, then on to Sanchore and then to Bhuj. Once at Bhuj, look out for the old Bhuj Railway Station, and then take the next turn for the White Desert of the Rann of Kutch. There will be signposts that will welcome you to the Rann and a 70 km passage that will take you to the Dhordho White Desert. This is a long road trip, through three states, Delhi, Rajasthan, and Gujarat, so prepare accordingly and be on your way!
7. Vishakapatnam, Andhra Pradesh to Thiruvananthapuram, Kerala:-
The giant mermaid statue at the Shangumugham beach, Kerala, India. Image Credit: Aravind Sivaraj
This road trip is not for the easily-tired. 25 hours will see you cover around 1,568 kilometers, along the picturesque South Eastern coast of India. The AH 45 takes you into Tamil Nadu, along the Andhra Pradesh coastline, which is dotted with intricate temple architecture, at Tirupati, Mahabalipuram, Kumbakonam, and Madurai. As you approach Thiruvananthapuram, you are treated to the gorgeous sight of the Ponmudi hills. Close to Thiruvananthapuram is located the picturesque beach towns of Kovalam and Varkala. With its lush greenery, it is little wonder that Thiruvananthapuram is known as the “Evergreen City of India”.
8. Kolkata to Sandakphu, West Bengal:-
The imposing view of the lofty Himalayas at Sandakphu, India. Image Credit: Aniruddha Das
This Himalayan abode is picturesque and travelling from Kolkata will treat you to some amazing sights. From Kolkata, drive to New Jalpaiguri, from where you can proceed to Manebhanjan, via Mirik. From Manebhanjan, Sandakphu is just 32 kms, yet it will take around 4.5 hours, thanks to the difficult route.
Once you reach Sandakphu, behold the magnificent views of the snow peaks. From Sandakphu, you can see Mt Everest, Makalu, Kanchenjunga, and Lhotse, as well as other spectacular peaks of Sikkim, Nepal, Tibet, and Bhutan.
9. Udaipur to Kumbalgarh, Rajasthan:-
The Kumbalgarh Fort, in Rajasthan, India is quite the sight with its huge walls, domes and pillars. Image Credit:- Sougat Kar
This can be done in a day. The single-lane highway that connects Udaipur to Kumbhalgarh offers beautiful views of lush vegetation all around. Be ready to be surprised, as even though Kumbalgarh is in Rajasthan, a region famous for its deserts, it has dense vegetation and green forests, as well as beautiful streams of water running through verdant meadows.
Kumbalgarh has a uniquely-built and robust fort, the walls of which are fondly known as the “Great Walls of India”. On this road trip, carry food and water, as there are few outlets to eat along the way. There is even a Kumbalgarh Wildlife Sanctuary, home to species like the Indian Leopard, striped hyena, jungle cat, nilgai, and sambhar.
10. Gwalior to Orchha, Madhya Pradesh:-
The River Betwa, calm and placid, in all its glory. Image Credit: Javed Khan
This is a highly-exciting road trip which takes you through interesting regions with amazing sights and sounds. From Gwalior, set off for Jhansi, and from there, go on to Khajuraho, the Panna National Park, and then Orchha. The trip will take you through some pretty spectacular roads, like the NH 76, after Chhatarpur, and the NH75, that takes you to the Panna National Park.
Orchha is an ancient 500-year old citadel that has a picturesque setting on the River Betwa. Orchha combines the architectural beauty of an old town, with the charm of a village.
The above list is not conclusive, and there are other offbeat road trips that you can take, to dodge the urban bustle and have a memorable time with your loved ones.
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Central Asia in the 19th century was one of the theatres for the Great Game, a political and diplomatic confrontation that existed between the British and Russian Empire, extending to Afghanistan and South Asia. The confrontation arose from a fear within the British establishment that the Russian Empire would advance south to Central Asia, from where they would invade the British Empire in South Asia.
Many Indians, who were the subjects of the British Empire, were recruited for the Great Game. Among them was the scholar, spy and explorer extraordinaire, Sarat Chandra Das. This trained Bengali civil engineer twice ventured into Tibet on secret missions but came back a renowned Buddhist scholar who, among other works, ended up writing a 1000-page Tibetan-English dictionary.
Born to middle-class Bengali family in the Chittagong district of modern-day Bangladesh, Das enrolled into Calcutta’s prestigious Presidency College to study civil engineering.
Earning a reputation as a highly intelligent student, Sarat Chandra Das soon attracted the attention of his British teachers and was appointed as the headmaster of the Bhutia Boarding School in Darjeeling in 1874, before he had even received his degree.
According to Samanth Subramanian in the New York Times, it was around this time, that Das was struck by a bout of malaria.
If this had not happened, Sarat Chandra Das might have remained a civil engineer probably working in Calcutta. Instead, he was sent to Darjeeling. “This was how, at 25, Das came to run a school for spies, training agents to work along the India-Tibet border, growing so besotted with Tibet himself that he made two surreptitious journeys to the kingdom,” writes Subramanian.
The school recruited boys from the hills and taught them basic English and science, alongside the necessary skills to conduct cartographic surveys.
“In the European imagination, Tibet and its capital, Lhasa, were a fantasy, a fabled paradise of spirituality locked away from the world. In the late 1700s, Tibet began denying entry to Westerners, its government—under pressure from China—reluctant to play the games of imperial geopolitics. For Britain, Tibet’s inward turn was ill-timed, disrupting its plans to dominate Central Asia. In desperation, as the scholar Derek Waller found, the British cultivated ‘Pundits,’ Indians who had helped map the subcontinent and were now dispatched, in disguise, into Tibet, equipped with compasses and 100-bead rosaries to discreetly count their steps,” adds Subramanian.
Sarat Chandra Das (Source: Wikimedia Commons)
Forget white-skinned Britishers it was nearly impossible for Indians from the plains to enter the kingdom perched on the roof of the world. However, trade between India and Tibet had been going on for centuries, dominated by Tibetans and hill tribes along the border. Besides them, the only other segment of the populace that had access to Tibet were Buddhist monks.
Finding an opening, the British sought to exploit it by sending spies into Tibet disguised as Buddhist monks, also known as Pundits.
“With sextants and theodolites in secret chambers of their boxes, compasses fitted on walking staffs, paper and hypsometers tucked in hollowed-out prayer wheels, and rosaries with one hundred beads instead of the sacred hundred and eight, they measured distances by keeping count of their paces and mapped swathes of the Tibetan territory,” writes Parimal Bhattacharya, who wrote the introduction to a collection of works by Chandra titled ‘Journey to Lhasa: The Diary of a Spy.’
Unlike other Pundits, who lacked formal education, Das was a scholar who had a deep yearning to visit Tibet and learn about its people and culture. After reading the works of English explorers who had visited the forbidden kingdom in the past, namely George Bogle, an East India Company officer, explorer Thomas Manning and botanist Joseph Dalton Hooker, Das set off on his first sojourn to Tibet.
The British thought he was the perfect candidate for the task. While many Pundits died or were captured en route, Das survived two journeys to Tibet.
At the boarding school, along with Das, was Ugyen Gyatso, an assistant teacher and Buddhist monk affiliated with the famous Tashi Lhunpo monastery in Shigatse, eastern Tibet.
Das convinced Ugyen to procure a passport for him into Tibet under the guise of a theology student eager to learn Buddhism. Speaking to a high-ranking Buddhist monk at the monastery, Ugyen proposed that Das could teach him Hindi in return. With confirmation for a passport into Tibet, British officials granted him indefinite leave and gave him a crash course in espionage.
Das visited Tibet on two separate occasions—first in 1879 for a brief four-month stay, and subsequently in 1881 for fourteen months. He even followed the route laid down by Hooker, who in 1849 had traversed through Sikkim and Nepal into the Tibetan kingdom.
On his first visit to the Tashi Lhunpo monastery in 1879, he studied Tibetan culture and its customs very diligently, impressing the prime minister to such a degree that he was invited a second time.
Following his second 14-month stay in Tibet, Das wrote two detailed reports, which were kept confidential until 1902, when they were compiled into a book “Journey to Lhasa and Central Tibet.”
Old map of Tibet. (Source: Wikimedia Commons)
“Sarat Chandra Das was taken by the Tibetans as one among the long line of scholars who had brought new knowledge and wisdom from India, the land of the Buddha. He himself, on the other hand, had seen Tibet as a high and dry repository of priceless ancient texts and belief systems that had been ravaged in India by bigots and tropical climate. The fascination and respect was mutual, and he returned with two yak-loads of rare books and manuscripts, splendidly pulling off a mission fraught with great hardship and danger. He was feted by the British government for this, and was sent to China as part of a diplomatic mission,” writes Parimal.
Nonetheless, travelling to Tibet in the early months of the winter was fraught with danger. “How exhausted we were with the fatigue of the day’s journey, how overcome by the rarefication of the air, the intensity of the cold, and how completely prostrated by hunger and thirst, is not easy to describe,” Das writes. In fact, at one juncture, a village council allows Das and his entourage to pass under the condition that he answer questions on Buddhism. Despite passing the test, locals were of the impression that he wouldn’t make it past the snowy, remote mountain passes.
Nonetheless, he made it to Tashi Lhunpo, where he stayed for five months before proceeding to Lhasa. He stayed there, despite the presence of Chinese officials who were determined to rebuff any attempt by outsiders to traverse through Tibet. In fact, villagers unwilling to bend to the will of Chinese officials stationed there were often whipped with bamboo sticks.
Before the break of summer, Sarat Chandra Das began his sojourn to Lhasa. Unfortunately, on the way, he was afflicted by smallpox. On the verge of death, he was fortunately treated by a local quack. Finally, on one fine May evening, Das and his entourage arrive at Lhasa.
“It was a superb sight, the like of which I have never seen. On our left was Potala with its lofty buildings and gilt roofs; before us, surrounded by a green meadow, lay the town with its tower-like, whitewashed houses and Chinese buildings with roofs of blue glazed tiles. Long festoons of inscribed and painted rags hung from one building to another, waving in the breeze,” Das writes.
At the Potala Palace, he somehow manages to slip into a group of pilgrims who were scheduled for an audience with the 13th Dalai Lama, “a child of eight with a bright and fair complexion and rosy cheeks.”
Das describes Lhasa in immaculate detail—a city immersed in grandeur marked by the nine-story Potala Palace and the 1200-year-old Jokhang Temple, and the inner-city lanes drenched in poverty and squalor.
Every little detail about the Tibetan system of government, religious authority and hierarchy, administration and even matters of taxation are detailed in his writings. There are detailed segments about everything—the practice of polyandry, tea-drinking etiquettes, cuisine, life in the villages, flora and fauna, and the different layers of Tibet’s material and spiritual existence.
After spending a mere two weeks in Lhasa, Das returned to India through Tashi Lhunpo once again and came back to base in Darjeeling.
Das was so captivated by Tibet that he named his house on the edge of the Darjeeling town, Lhasa Villa. The rest of his life was spent in translating Tibetan texts, penning his famous Tibetan-English dictionary.
Unfortunately, the events following his departure are marred by tragic violence.
Once Chinese or Tibetan officials had found out about Das’s antics, Lama Sengchen Dorjechen, a high-ranking Buddhist scholar who had taught him Buddhist philosophy at Tashi Lhunpo, while learning science and mathematics in return, was executed and the body thrown into a river. Other accounts suggest that Tibetan officials had executed him for allowing a foreigner to enter, learn and stay in Tibet. Anyone else who assisted Das either met with the same fate or sent to prison.
Sarat Chandra Das (Source: Wikipedia Commons)
Sarat Chandra Das’ reports on Tibet also laid the groundwork for the British invasion of Tibet in 1904 led by Colonel Francis Younghusband. While the Dalai Lama escaped to Mongolia, and subsequently China, many Tibetans who had stayed back to fight were crushed by the British forces.
The Tibetan kingdom was forced to sign the Treaty of Tibet with the British. As per the treaty, the British were allowed to trade in Tibet, while the kingdom was forced to pay a large indemnity of Rs 7,500,000. It was later brought down by two-thirds under the condition that Chumbi Valley come under British administrative control. Two years later in 1906, the Chinese Qing Empire re-worked the Treaty of Tibet and came up with the Anglo-Chinese Convention of 1906.
For a fee, the British agreed “not to annex Tibetan territory or to interfere in the administration of Tibet,” while China promised, “not to permit any other foreign state to interfere with the territory or internal administration of Tibet.”
The British had succeeded in pushing the Russians back.
Sarat Chandra Das, meanwhile, was discarded by the British after his return home. Embittered, he began writing in nationalist publications, while continuing his pursuit of Tibetan Buddhist philosophy. He remains one of the great scholars of Tibetan Buddhism.
(Edited by Gayatri Mishra)
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Karnataka is a state that truly exemplifies its chosen motto: One State, Many Worlds.
How often have you come across a state in India that has far-ranging topographies like the ancient ruins of Hampi with vast expanses of rocks and boulders, while on the other hand, there are hill towns like Coorg and Sakleshpur whose coffee plantations host visitors from far and wide?
And then we have a beautiful coastline that includes Gokarna and the many beaches of Mangaluru, which together make Karnataka an explorer’s paradise!
However, we have decided to steer clear of the regular tourist circuits and travel packages, and instead list places from the state that have much more to offer in terms of history, art, architecture, culture & of course, beautiful vistas for the eyes to behold!
From architectural marvels to rainforests and even some mysteries, here are 19 hidden gems that will undoubtedly get you packing, and rush to explore the many worlds of Karnataka:
Once the capital of the mighty Badami Chalukyas, few know about this town in Karnataka that has great historical importance and stands tall in its majestic splendour. Along the serene waters of the Agastya Lake, are the cave temples made out of two giant sandstone hills that the identity of the ancient town still upholds, painting an earthy picture of reds, greens and browns against an acrylic blue sky.
A classic example of Dravidian temple architecture, Badami is a fascinating locale that one must visit for the pure love of history and architecture. Equally enthralling are the towns of Aihole and Pattadakal, whose temple compendiums have often been dubbed as god’s collection of prototypes. These three towns in Bagalkot district can be visited in a single day and trust us, you won’t forget the memories of this trip for a really long time.
2. Belur-Halebidu
A fine example of Hoysala architecture at Chennakesava temple, Belur. Credits: Dinesh Valke/ Flickr.
Amongst the finest examples of Hoysala artistry, a visit to the Chennakeshava and Kesava temples of Belur is an experience that one needs to undertake to witness the splendour and artistic culture of an empire from the bygone era. An early capital during the 11th century, the Hoysalas so revered Belur, which was also known as Velur or Velapuri, that it was often referred to as earthly Vaikuntha (Vishnu’s abode) and Dakshina Varanasi and it took about 190 years to entirely build the town. Together with Halebidu, these towns offer a periscopic glimpse into the grandeur of the Hoysala empire that would lead you into a time-travel like trance. The temples of Belur mentioned above, along with Hoysaleshwara temple and Jain temples in Halebidu, have been demarcated by UNESCO as world heritage sites.
3. Shivagange
Rock sculpture of Nandi atop Shivagange peak. Credits: Solarisgirl/Flickr.
Located close to Bengaluru, the Shivagange peak is a Hindu pilgrimage site that takes its moniker from the shivalinga-shaped mountain and a spring that is locally known as Ganga. Also known as Dakshina Kashi, the pilgrimage centre has a historical rock sculpture of Nandi or Basavanna that has been magnificently carved on top of a steep rock.
Amidst other temples, the cave (Gavi) temple of Sri Gangadhareshwara is one you mustn’t miss, and if legends are to be believed, there exists a secret tunnel that extends from the garbha griha (sanctum sanctorum) of this temple to the Gavi Gangadhareshwara temple in Bengaluru. Shivagange is a trekker’s paradise that you must definitely consider!
Labelled as the Cherrapunjee of South, this little village in the Malnad region of Karnataka is where time quite literally stops still as you walk along streets lined with rustic cottages and lush green vegetation. Agumbe is the small town which formed the basis for RK Narayan’s magnum opus, Malgudi Days.
Because the locale is yet to be tarnished by expanding tourism and real estate industries, Agumbe should be on top of your list where you intend to find inner peace and yes, lots of rain and mist! Besides many waterfalls and pristine roadside locations, what you must not miss in Agumbe include chasing sunrise at Kundadri Hills and of course, the Malgudi Mane.
The perfect example of a melting pot of faith, art, culture and heritage, the city of Bijapur in North Karnataka is quite renowned for its historical monuments built during the Adil Shahi dynasty. However, the city’s history goes much beyond that, and it was once the centre point of the Chalukyas of Kalyani, who established the town between 10-11th centuries and christened it as Vijayapura (City of victory).
The reins of the city kept changing hands before finally being acquired by the Bahmani Sultanate of Gulbarga in 1347, and that is when its current name stuck. Gol Gumbaz, Ibrahim Rauza, Anand Mahal, Jod Gumbaz, Jumma Masjid, Saat Manzil, and Jal Manzil are only a few amidst a plentiful of monuments in Bijapur that you should visit for a slice of history and breathtaking architecture.
Being the tallest peak in the state, the picturesque Mullayanagiri is probably one of the best trekking routes Karnataka has to offer. The peak is named after a legendary sage, Mullapa Swamy, and a small temple atop the summit is dedicated to him.
It is believed that the sage once meditated in the caves located a few feet below the peak and these have a direct connection with the garbha griha of the temple, which you can still access. Mullayanagiri is quite popular with trekking enthusiasts, and as it is not located very far from Bengaluru, it is a perfect weekend getaway.
Located in the Mandya district of Karnataka, Shivanasamudra is the tiny island town where the Kaveri river, after wading through the rocks and ravines of the Deccan Plateau, drops down to form two breathtakingly beautiful waterfalls—Gaganachukki and Bharachukki, and together form the Shivanasamudra falls.
There are few ancient temples like Sri Ranganathaswamy temple and Sri Someshwara temple that are constructed in the Dravidian style of architecture, scattered in the region that are bound to take you back in time. One can easily reach the rustic town through buses from Bengaluru.
8. Anegundi
A view of Anegundi from Anjanadri Parvata. Source: KarnatakaTravel.
In the legend of Ramayana, Kishkindha was the kingdom of Bali and Sugriva, but today, mentions of it are only found in scriptures, and in its place exists the sleepy town of Anegundi, which is relatively shadowed by Hampi. Nevertheless, with its green pastures blending seamlessly with the rocky landscapes, Anegundi is a refreshing change to the rock temples of Hampi, and what makes it truly iconic is the Anjanadri Parvatha, which is believed to be the birthplace of Hanuman and houses a temple atop a hill.
Interestingly, Anegundi’s history goes beyond the known realms of human civilisations and geologists cite that the region is over four billion years old and is a rare example of human settlements where one can find traces of Microlithic, Megalithic and Neolithic ages at one same spot!
9. Talakadu
A temple in Talakadu. Source: Wikimedia.
Amidst many legends associated with the ancient town of Talakadu, the one which continues to arouse enigma is the curse of the sand dunes from the Vijayanagara period that has enshrouded vast expanses of the region for many centuries and continues to do so. The curse is also believed to be the reason why the royal family of Mysore Wodeyars haven’t had any heirs for generations.
It was only in recent times that many ancient temples were unearthed from mounds and mounds of sand and since then, these have been preserved by the state. The 10th century Vaidyeshvara temple built by a Chola king in Talakadu is definitely worth a visit.
10. Chitradurga
A Hindu temple and market road ruins inside Chitradurga Fort. Source: Wikimedia.
Believed to be the birthplace of Hidimba and Hidimbi, the demon brother-sister duo from the Mahabharata, the panorama of Chitradurga features bold rock hills and picturesque valleys with huge towering boulders in varying shapes, because of which the town is also known as Kallina Kote or a stone fortress.
The legend of Onake Obavva, according to which Obavva, the wife of a guard, single-handedly managed to kill hundreds of soldiers of Hyder Ali who were trying to infiltrate into the Chitradurga fort with an Onake (a long wooden club meant for pounding paddy grains), before succumbing to her injuries, is also synonymous with Chitradurga. The fort, along with its 18 temples and Chandravalli caves are definitely worth a visit.
Located in the backwaters of Sharavathi river, Honnemaradu is a small village tucked away in the majestic stretch of forests of the Western Ghats, that has a small reservoir with the village’s namesake and a small island in its midst.
Besides various adventure activities, what makes Honnemaradu much sought after by campers and trekkers is its picturesque landscapes that pave the way for gorgeous sunrise and sunset views and also fantastic bird watching opportunities.
According to Outlook Travel, Maravanthe has one of Karnataka’s most beautiful beaches, and is definitely one of the hidden gems of the state. What makes the Maravanthe beach one of its kind in the entire country is the brilliant view it offers—the Souparnika river flows right next to the beach, and a national highway separates the two water bodies—making it an amazing pit stop or even a drive for people transiting along this route for over 10 km!
There is also a temple situated along the shoreline that you can check out where three principal deities are worshipped. Here, the river makes a U-turn towards the eastern side of the temple, giving rise to riverine islands, known as kudru. One can also find a clear reflection of the distinct Kodachadri peak at this end of the river, along with swaying palm trees and green fields.
Amongst other hidden secrets of Karnataka, St Mary’s Islands is a well-kept one that has a historical past going beyond the evolution of life on Earth. Declared as one of the 26 Geological Monuments of India in 2001, by the Geological Survey of India, legend has it that Vasco da Gama, on his journey from Portugal, first landed on these islands, fixed a cross, and named one of these islands, O Padrão de Santa Maria, as a dedication to Mother Mary, and the name stuck on.
Fun fact: The basalt on the islands located along the coast of Malpe in Udupi district was formed by sub-aerial subvolcanic activity around 88 million years ago when Madagascar was still attached to India!
14. Banavasi
9th century Madhukeshwara Temple of Banavasi. Source: Wikimedia.
Believed to be the oldest town in Karnataka, the temple town of Banavasi in Uttara Kannada district is another one of the best-kept secrets in the state. Once the ancient capital of the mighty Kannada empire of Kadambas who ruled the entire Uttara Kannada district, what exists as the town today is entirely centred around the 9th-century Madhukeshwara Temple and is surrounded by forests and villages, with the Varada river flowing around it on three sides.
Interestingly, a 2006 discovery of a 5th-century copper coin in the region brought to light the fact that the empire had a currency system during their reign, and this was also proven by inscriptions in archaic Kannada!
15. Bylakuppe
Entrance to Namdroling monastery of Nyingma. Source: Wikimedia.
Roughly about 80 km from Mysore, Bylakuppe is where the first ever Tibetan exile settlement, Lugsung Samdupling, came into existence in 1961, after an allocation of nearly 3,000 acres of land by the then government of Mysore (erstwhile Karnataka). Today, with a population of about 70,000 people, Bylakuppe is home to many Tibetan settlements.
One can get a glimpse of the Tibetan way of life in the town, with a number of agricultural settlements and colonies, well within the vicinity of each other along with many monasteries and temples that practice all major Tibetan Buddhist traditions. Educational monastic institutions like the Namdroling monastery of Nyingma (also known as Golden temple), Sera monastery and Tashi Lhunpo monastery are worth a visit on a trip to Bylakuppe.
With a moniker that translates to ‘face of a horse’, Kudremukh is a small hill station in the Chikmagalur district, which has 13 trekking trails that range from easy to tough.
How the name stuck to the locale can be explained in reference to a particular picturesque angle of the Kudremukh peak that resembles a horse’s face. While the region constitutes a spectacular chain of undulating hills with a mosaic of natural grassland and shola forests, one needs to be careful with trekking here, as not all routes are safe without being assisted by forest guards or guides.
Because of the presence of 30 tombs amidst the 61 monuments listed by the state Department of Archaeology, Museums and Heritage in and around the city, Bidar holds the tag of City of Whispering Monuments.
With a fascinatingly rich cultural and architectural heritage, the city has documented association to periods as early as the reign of Mauryan empire as well as references found in early Hindu literature like Malavikagnimitra, Mahabharata, Harivamsa, Bhagavata, and a few other Puranas. With the entry of many Islamic conquerors, the city also has many historic forts and mahals that have rightfully earned Bidar a prominent place on the Archaeological Map of India.
Also known as The Submerged Church and The Floating Church, Shettihalli church is a magnificent example of Gothic architecture in India. Built by French missionaries in the late 1800s, the church became an abandoned site with the construction of the Hemavati Dam and Reservoir in 1960s, because of which, it began to partially submerge in water during monsoons.
To fully appreciate its surreal beauty, one must visit the ruins of Shettihalli twice in a year—once between the months of July-October when it is submerged and next between the month of Dec-May when the water retreats and the church rises in its complete grandeur.
19. Gadag
Trikuteshwara temple at Gadag. Source: Wikimedia (left/right).
Such is the brilliance of the architecture observed in the Hindu and Jain temples scattered across this small town that was once the centre of the erstwhile Chalukya empire, that it is often referred to as the Gadag style of architecture in lieu of the Western Chalukyan style.
Built between the 10th and 12th century, the Trikuteshwara temple complex is an important site that you must not miss, for its ornate pillars with intricate sculptures and monolithic Shiva lingas are a sight to behold. Equally mesmerising are other sites like Veeranarayana temple, Brahma Jinalaya, Basaveshwara statue, Dambala temple complex, and the Dattatreya temple.
Gowtham Kumar, was in the limelight when he came up with a dog ambulance. His unique innovation was a relief for pet owners, who struggle to find appropriate transport at the time of need. Fitting a pet carrier on his bike, Gowtham began his services, charging only for the petrol used.
Well, this time, Gowtham has proven that dogs truly are man’s best friend. Along with his adopted pet, Chandramouli, he undertook a unique road trip through Karnataka, visiting iconic tourist spots on his bike!
Speaking to The Better India about Chandramouli, he says, “She is a wonderful travel companion.” The animal was just a stray pup when Gowtham saved her from being attacked by other dogs.
A seemingly happy Chandramouli, resting en-route on her road trip. Image Courtesy: Gowtham
The idea of a road trip with Chandramouli came to him, when he decided to combine his love for travelling and his love for dogs. He didn’t want to forgo his adventurous side and didn’t want his best friend missing out on his unique experiences either. So, he attached a dog carrier to his bike and gave it a few rounds of testing. He even fitted a cushion in the carrier to make sure his canine companion was comfortable.
“She loves the feel of the wind on her face, which is fine as long as I don’t over speed. Moreover, she even has special doggie goggles or ‘doggles’, to protect her eyes,” says the ever-careful Gowtham, who even made frequent stops so Chandramouli could catch a break, and have a short walk.
Gowtham took Chandramouli, his beloved pet, on a road trip through Karnataka. Image Courtesy: Gowtham.
Gowtham and Chandramouli did the Hampi-Hassan-Mysore route together, to take in the beautiful temples and scenery these heritage sites have to offer. The route isn’t particularly difficult, but when you have your pet with you, the rules of a road trip change ever so slightly.
What’s more, when you travel with your 4-legged friend, people come up curiously to ask questions and interact with you. In fact, you become more popular if you travel with your pet.
Gowtham and Chandramouli, in Hampi, Karnataka. Image Courtesy: Gowtham
“All highway dhabas, where truck drivers eat, are pet-friendly,” shares Gowtham, adding that his travel experience was enriched due to Chandramouli’s presence. As a rule, if you want a wholesome travel experience, you should interact with locals and other travellers. If you are travelling with a dog, those very same people will want to interact with you, before you even think of doing so!
Chandramouli enjoyed the road trip as much as Gowtham. Image Courtesy: Gowtham.
Gowtham’s trip that lasted for four days. And what an eventful trip it was! Riding constantly with his best friend, Gowtham had a whale of a time.
“This wasn’t my first trip with Chandramouli,” he reveals, indicating that the duo were veterans. Chandramouli seemingly loves travelling. According to Gowtham, she stays awake in her crate and doesn’t sleep during the journey.
Overlooking a beautiful rock formation, somewhere in Karnataka. Image Courtesy: Gowtham
“Whenever we stopped for a meal, I would use a packet of dog-food and mix it with rice,” says Gowtham, adding that rice is found in abundance and there isn’t any need to carry your own. The dog-food was a gravy mixture, which mixed with the rice, formed a nutritious meal, one that Chandramouli required, as the journey was long.
Everywhere he went, people were curious and would come up to him and ask questions. At Hassan, one person even wanted to buy Chandramouli, and offered a price! Naturally, Gowtham refused point blank–how can you part ways with your best friend?
Well, when we spoke to Gowtham, we also asked him what a person should do if he is road-tripping with his pet dog for the first time. Here’s what he suggests:
1. Keep in mind, that fitting a dog carrier on the bike, reduces its aerodynamic abilities.
Chandramouli has her own pair of riding goggles, and a pet carrier to travel in comfort. Image Courtesy: Gowtham.
You cannot take liberties as you would on a motorcycle without a pet carrier. Don’t go beyond a particular speed, don’t try to corner and put your knee down, your pet’s life is in your hands! Ride slowly, preferably below 80 kmph at all times. And take account of the wind. Note the presence of windmills, for there will be crosswinds where they are.
2. Carry pouches of dog food, preferably a gravy-type mix that you can feed with rice.This is a highly-nutritious meal, a huge boon for your pet who is accompanying you on the road.
3. Take appropriate breaks.
A tired Chandramouli, catching a quick nap before hitting the road again. Image Courtesy: Gowtham.
During his trip, Gowtham would take breaks after 90 minutes or 60 minutes of riding, depending on the circumstances. Do not ride continuously–a pet will not sleep during the bike ride, and will probably be as exhausted, if not more than you. Taking breaks will also allow you to walk your dog.
4. There are no particular medical precautions to be taken. Chandramouli’s vaccinations were up to date, and that is pretty much what one must check.
5. Check the restrictions that tourist places have.
At the iconic Shettihalli Rosary Church, in Hassan, Karnataka. Image Courtesy: Gowtham.
For example, places of worship usually do not allow pets inside. Find out from the local people where you can or cannot visit with your dog. If your trip is more than a day, and you have to book a place to stay for the night, make sure to find out if it is pet-friendly.
6. Most importantly, look out for signs of discomfort that your pet might exhibit during the road trip. You should know your dog well enough to read the signs of discomfort, if and when they surface.
For Gowtham, travelling is a way of life, and Chandramouli, his faithful travel companion, seems to agree. The pictures speak of the sacred bond between man and his best friend. Gowtham rounds off with a pleasant memory.
The duo spend time amidst the scenic temples in Hampi. Image Courtesy: Gowtham.
“Seeing as I was riding at a slow speed, other bikers naturally overtook me on the highway. When they saw that I had a dog, they would flash a thumbs-up sign and wave enthusiastically while passing by me on the highway,” he says.
Gowtham’s trusty motorcycle, and his best friend, catch the sunset, somewhere in Karnataka. Image Courtesy: Gowtham
Incidentally, people refused to believe that Chandramouli is an indie, and insisted she was a pedigree breed, while others suggested she might be a hunting dog. Nothing could be further from the truth, chuckles Gowtham, as he highlights the gentle and kind nature of his best friend and travel buddy.
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A trip to Goa during the tourist season (October to May) is incomplete if you do not take joy boat rides. The boat rides where you are promised to get up close and personal with Indian Ocean Humpback Dolphin. They are found off the coast of Goa and live their entire lives within 2-3 kilometres of the shore. However, these boat rides are sadly hampering the lives of these dolphins.
It has been observed that when these dolphins come to the bay to feed, the boats chase them and play loud music which hampers communication between fellow dolphins.
Thus, these animals find it difficult to search for food, to procreate, and to socialise.
Photo: Sunil Chauhan
Also, offshore pollution due to incessant increase in tourism and overfishing in Goa is affecting their livelihood. They are protected under Schedule I of the Wildlife Protection Act of India, 1972 and classified as ‘Endangered’ by the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN).
The threat to this marine diversity of Goa needs to be curbed, and that’s how ‘Ocean Biodiversity Experience’ has emerged. Their work involves exploring estuarine and oceanic habitat, sharing information about the local species of dolphin, such as behaviour, habitat use, conservation threats, etc.
In Goa, it is initiated by Terra Conscious, a social impact travel enterprise. Puja Mitra, Founder-Director, Terra Conscious, says, “We run an ethical dolphin-watching programme as an example of social impact tours, where we enable boat operators to run their trips by internationally accepted dolphin watching guidelines. We have designed a four-hour experience which is called ‘Ocean Biodiversity Experience’.”
This trip begins with sensitising the tourist with a presentation and while their boat partners follow guidelines such as switching off the engines in the presence of dolphins, keeping their vessels parallel to the dolphin pods (families) and maintaining a distance from the animals while providing an opportunity to observe them and their habitat without creating any disturbance.
The training is essentially two-fold: it involves sharing information about the focal species (Humpback dolphins) through interactive presentations/photos/videos with boat-operator partners, so they learn about the physical attributes, habitat use, behaviour, intelligence and conservation threats. The second step is to understand how to operate the boat around dolphin pods and help them to reduce the pressure they cause on the habitat by their presence.
Now, this knowledge is passed on to the local boatmen from the village of Morjim, a village situated in coastal part of North Goa.
A group of eight operators who run three boats have joined this programme, and Terra Conscious serves as their knowledge guide, marketing partner and capacity-building support.
Puja Mitra explaining about dolphins during the knowledge presentation. Photo: Terra Conscious
All these boatmen are fishermen who have been involved in fishing at Morjim bay for nearly three generations. But, now due to mechanised fishing, which affected their livelihood, they thought of shifting to dolphin boat trips.
“We used to show dolphins as we didn’t have any information about them. But, now with this training, we give the information related to dolphins and also tell our customers not to throw plastic in the water. We also don’t play any sound,” says Samir Morje, one of the community boat-operator partners.
Puja mentions that due to the training programme, they have learnt how to observe the dolphins, how to save on fuel and receive customer feedback. “It became a mutually-supportive partnership, where the boatmen contribute their experiences, local knowledge, boats, and skills at sea and we provide scientific information about the dolphins and share international operations guidelines; we market them and their skills to a conscious travel market and also support them in conducting the trip each time,” says Puja.
She has earlier worked as Senior Programme Coordinator for the World Wide Fund for Nature – India (WWF-India), Goa State Office. She conceptualised and executed a pioneering integrated project assessing the impact of boat-based tourism on dolphins and corals in Goa.
This training also made the boatmen conscious about the ecology and what harm they were earlier causing. They also realised the benefits of such trips.
“Now, whenever we see a dolphin 50-100 meters away, we stop our boat engines. This also helps in saving on fuel,” says Chandrahas Dhumat, another community boat-operator partner.
Boat operators of Morjim, Goa, who are involved in the ethical dolphin-watching experience. Photo: Terra Conscious.
They also take precautionary action and focus on speaking about ecology. “Earlier our customers used to jump in the water with the dolphins. We don’t allow that anymore. Now, we even show different birds which are seen during this trip,” says Morje.
These trips are also viable for them financially. The regular boat ride costs Rs 300 and lasts around 45-60 minutes. The ethical boat rides, on the other hand, cost Rs 2,500 per head and last for four hours, which includes the knowledge presentation, a souvenir, breakfast, onboard snacks. This enables them to provide the boat operators with a set fair price per trip that is not dependent on how many guests are on board.
“So whether we have three guests or a full capacity of 10 guests, they earn double the amount they would earn for a full boat otherwise. Their regular trips are at the cost of Rs 300, which even in a full boat, makes their earning potential only Rs 3,000 per trip, which often does not cover their costs of fuel and boat maintenance. Through our approach, they earn more money, burn less fuel, conduct the trip ethically and gain not just financially, but also through the respect and recognition they gain from the guests who admire their initiative and indigenous knowledge,” explains Puja.
Puja feels that cheaper trips force the operators to overload their boats, add inappropriate add-ons such as serving alcohol or allowing people to dance or disregard safety protocols and chase the animal in an attempt to show a sighting in an overcrowded space. These unethical practices do not serve the boatmen in the long run either, as they still have to deal with rising living and fuel costs. On the other hand, she feels that their partnership is not just a ‘sightseeing trip’ or a ‘watersport’, but that it is necessary to give information about a species which is endangered.
Puja now hopes that this pilot project becomes a model for other boat operators. The total number of boat operators in Goa are around 400 who are involved in dolphin watching boat rides.
The largest concentration is at Sinquerim and Coco beach in North Goa
The boat operators also conduct beach-cleaning activities. Photo: Terra Conscious.
Puja maintains that such a large number is unsustainable and what is needed is a conscious market. She signs off, “If a more conscious market starts to develop around this activity, the chances are that the kind of unregulated trips you see now will gradually transform since the nature of the demand will influence the supply. So if people start asking for ethical, knowledge-driven dolphin watching experiences, more operators will see value in changing the way they operate.”
As Chandrahas concludes, “Now we are safeguarding these dolphins, it will, in turn, help our children in future to do these dolphin rides.”
